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r.warr
United Kingdom
69 Posts |
 Posted - 15/01/2007 : 21:21:35
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What does one do for replacement cotter pins to locate the king pin in the axle.
Do you pay exorbitant prices from dealers for a replacement king pin set, make your own or is there a supplier of these items somewhere.
My pins and bushes are in very good condition but I need the cotters to complete a repair.
Can anyone help.
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Mike
United Kingdom
229 Posts |
Posted - 15/01/2007 : 22:00:19
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Easy, go to a cycle shop they have them for pedal cranks etc however it is false economy as the ones from the "dealers" have a modified cotter pin head which acts as primary stop on lock to lock thereby protecting your expensive steering box which becomes a secondary stop so reducing stress and wear in the those internal parts.
I have to say though, where would we be without the dealers like Sports and Vintage who have capital tied up in slow selling items which they may have initially required vast somes to tool up and make.
In the early days, 50`s and 60`s, you only had the like of Thompsons of Wimbledon Road and Toulmins and they had limited stocks thats why so many MMM cars ended up with FORD engines etc.
So support the dealers as they have supported you.
M ELLIS |
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Bruce Sutherland
United Kingdom
1564 Posts |
Posted - 16/01/2007 : 10:37:16
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I've just been researching the same thing. The cotter pin with the lock stop feature as described by Mike is available from Sports & Vintage - Part No. 1940 at ú8.53 each.
Bruce. (PB0564) |
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r.warr
United Kingdom
69 Posts |
Posted - 16/01/2007 : 22:06:52
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Many thanks for this info which I already knew of course.
When you add the delivery costs onto a small item like these for a repair the cost then becomes totally disproportional.
I agree with most of the comments and for reasonable priced components I already purchase from such dealers as I agree that they need to be supported. |
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Bob Clare
United Kingdom
278 Posts |
Posted - 22/01/2007 : 00:28:30
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By a curious coincidence, Brian Rhead sent me a drawing a couple of months ago for a "push-me pull-you cotter for our cars. This allows easy removal of the cotter which is certainly a problem I've encountered, usually ending up drilling the darn thing out. Anyway, The design includes the lock stop so I don't know whether it's the same as Mike Dowley supplies.
I made a few for Brian so anyone interested, just e-mail.
Bob Clare
Registrar, Triple-M Register
MG Car Club
Please note:- All personal information given to the Register is protected by the UK Data Protection Act.
39 Hillside Avenue, Worthing, West Sussex BN14 9QS, England
Tel: 044 (0)1903 203698 Fax: 044 (0)1903 234609 e-mail: 100570.2213@compuserve.com
Reg. Office: Kimber House, 12 Cemetery Road, Abingdon. Reg. No. 962227
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Keith Wallace
United Kingdom
367 Posts |
Posted - 05/11/2008 : 08:46:51
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I have just sheared the near side cotter pin nut off! (I remember as a lad trying to replace the cotter pin on my push bike and the trouble I had.)
Can anyone offer any advice on how to go about the task of removing a stubbon cotter pin?
(and why do some people refer to a cotter pin as a split pin, which term is correct?)
Keith Wallace |
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Gordon
United Kingdom
692 Posts |
Posted - 05/11/2008 : 15:50:54
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Keith,
Whilst I have not removed a cotter pin myself I have found the following works very well when removing a steering joint that is of the taper type. Take a small (1/2 lb) ball peen hammer and lightly tap the housing at 90 degees to the pin very rapidly, with a heavy steel dolly held against the opposite side. The vibration set up frees the taper quickly. It might be worth a try.
Gordon
Gordon |
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Rodney Collins
United Kingdom
424 Posts |
Posted - 05/11/2008 : 16:07:06
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Keith, as a cyclist who has removed lots of cotter pins from cranks I have always found it very simple. A cotterpin should alway be fettled before fitting so it fits neat and tight. Cotter pins should not be reused once removed. If the cotter pin is complete you just slacken off the nut by a few threads and tap the nut until the pin is loosend. If you have sheared off the nut you will have to use a drift to tap the pin loose. Thank goodness modern bikes no longer use cotterpins!!
Rodney |
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bob
United Kingdom
335 Posts |
Posted - 05/11/2008 : 20:08:11
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The main problem when removing a cotter pin is making the kingpin solid and secure enough so that when you try to drift it out the hammer blow is directed to the end of the cotter pin and not in bouncing the kingpin or the car. So get an assistant to press a solid heavy object such as the head of a lump hammer against the back of the kingpin whilst you drift it out. Use a flat ended punch and not a centre punch or anything else with a point as this will only spread the end of the cotter pin making it impossible to remove without resorting to a drill.
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Cymber
United Kingdom
966 Posts |
Posted - 05/11/2008 : 20:35:24
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Keith,
I believe original cotter pins had special lockstop nuts screwed on the other end, at least the ones on my PA did, in which case tightening the lockstop nut will pull the cotter pin out, very simple. Failing that Bob's method is the best option.
Maurice Blakey. |
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