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dade
United Kingdom
513 Posts |
 Posted - 11/03/2008 : 09:01:29
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I have recently finished installing chassis lubrication pipes on my PB rebuild, however when assembling the grouped nipples I find that I have 2 types of nipple.
First the conventional nipple with a tiny ball that is displaced by the pressure of the oil/grease gun.
Second a nipple with small "Spigots" or "Spouts".
My question is which is the correct nipple and also what oil gun does the MMM owner use if he has not got an original oil gun.
Look forward to you replies.
Russ
PB0333 |
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David Allison
United Kingdom
665 Posts |
Posted - 11/03/2008 : 14:54:38
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I use a standard "Wanner" type grease gun which I have adapted to suit the spout type nipples.
Dad has an original oiling gun - all I did was make a copy of the tool to feed oil into the oiling nipples.
It works very well just make sure there is plenty of rag around to catch the spills.
I use SAE 140 oil on the chassis.
The rag I use to wipe up the spills - I soak in parrafin and then wipe down the springs and other visible parts of the chassis (once the chassis has been cleaned and is fully dry of course).
I also mix some oil and parrafin and brush the mixture into the springs using a stiff brush - this cleans the muck out between the leaves and puts a bit of lubrication in as well.
The modern type grease nipples dont look right in my opinion - although they are less messy.
hope this helps
Regards David
NA 0307 |
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ags
United Kingdom
275 Posts |
Posted - 11/03/2008 : 23:21:55
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Hi Dade,
As David A. implied, but did not quite say explicitly, the original type of centralised lubrication nipples are the "spout" ones. These have a parallel sided spout at about 45 degrees to the the bore which feeds to the distribution pipes. Pumping SAE 140 oil into them is reasonably easy in the summer using a gun which has either a parallel orifice or an over diameter semi circular recess, but not the modern segmented self sealing type. The job can be literally painful in winter as blisters are easily raised. I find that the spouts are best arranged facing up in a vertical plane as this eases the pumping task. The design of the gun nozzle is not very critical, because a scrap of rag or upholstery foam can be placed over the spout to provide a seal. As David says though, the area of paintwork under the nipples will still require ample drip catching rag protection.
The biggest problem arises if some P. O. has tried to use grease in the system. It will then be impossible to get the oil to the parts that need lubrication. I know of no solution but to strip all the pipes from the chassis, hang them vertically, and carefully heat them with a blow torch from bottom to top. All the joints should be silver soldered, so that you should not be worried about disturbing these, and annealing the pipes is a good thing as well.
Lastly, the most important parts of the system are the ones that are most often lost. These are the needle valves which control the distribution of oil. These are fitted to the end unions on the nearest lubrication points so that these are not flooded while the furthest points are starved. In one of the Works Service supplement sheets (I think) there is a list of settings which do ensure that eg your rear trunnions or the brake cables up to the end of the outers get their fair share of oil. With these adjusted properly and a grease free system the job is merely to pump away until fresh oil emerges from all the parts to be lubricated. This is one of the jobs which is actually both quicker and better than the modern equivalent of trusting to or inspecting sealed joints.
More technical ramblings from,
Andrew Smith MMM571 |
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Gerhard Maier
Germany
881 Posts |
Posted - 12/03/2008 : 17:22:09
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I have the original type of chassis lubbrication-system on my car.
(The new systems they sell now, often have the wrong type of nipples without the big threaded base)
But I must confess, that I prefer, when lubricating the chassis, to quickly undo the unions where I want to lubricate, and instead screw in a modern nipple for the moment. That is less time consuming than it sounds, and it helps to make sure, that I always have pressed in the quantity which is needed at this place.
For lubrication I store a mixture of SAE 140 oil and add as much molybdenium grease, that a dipped in srewdriver just, just is dripping. That stuff I use on all the parts to lubricate, also front axle, steering-box and propschaft.
Surely it can make even more a dirty mess than the plain 140 oil, but it gives me the feeling, that I have done more to prevent moving parts from wearing out.
Gerhard
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dade
United Kingdom
513 Posts |
Posted - 13/03/2008 : 08:54:23
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Thanks everybody for your input.
I appreciate your help in what at first glance seems a trivial query.
However knowing that I have the correct fittings and a few clues as to oil gun operation is a great help.
Regards
Russ
PB 0333 |
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dade
United Kingdom
513 Posts |
Posted - 27/03/2008 : 08:09:11
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Further to my comments about oil guns and nipples for MMM Cars and my lack of an oil gun.
I have just purchased an oil gun from Frost Equipment that appears to be just right, the standard fitting on the oil gun fits the spout nipples fine and there is an alternative style spare.
Hope that this snippet of info is useful.
Russ
PB0333 |
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