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DickMorbey
United Kingdom
3683 Posts |
 Posted - 19/03/2008 : 20:01:13
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I know there are not supposed to be any "stupid Triple-M questions" - but here is one .....
Which way up is the exhaust flange gasket supposed to go? Spigot pointing up, or downwards?
Regards
Dick Morbey, PA/B 0743 |
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Rodney Collins
United Kingdom
424 Posts |
Posted - 19/03/2008 : 20:21:31
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What a stupid question! every one knows the answer to that!
Except YOU & ME!!
Regards Rodney |
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kimber
United Kingdom
1529 Posts |
Posted - 19/03/2008 : 20:35:12
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My recollection is that there is a corresponding rebate in the manifold flange. So, spigot facing upwards.
Now, where's the octagonal dunce's cap....? |
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Peter Green
United Kingdom
1682 Posts |
Posted - 19/03/2008 : 21:46:17
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Kimber is correct, the spigot on the gasket goes into the manifold.
Peter. |
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DickMorbey
United Kingdom
3683 Posts |
Posted - 20/03/2008 : 08:49:35
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Thanks Andrew and Peter. That's good - I won't have to undo it all again!
Regards
Dick Morbey, PA/B 0743 |
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David Allison
United Kingdom
665 Posts |
Posted - 20/03/2008 : 08:57:53
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Dick
I dont think it will go on the other way up - the down pipe is smaller diameter than the manifold and will damage the gasket.
I can remmember agonising the first one I did - only to find that it actually tells you itself.
It is worth soaking the gasket for a few moments before fitting - to make sure there are no air bubbles in the sandwich of material before fitting. Just like with the sandwich headgaskets the asbestos material in the middle can hold quite a lot of air while in storage - this expands the first time the gasket gets hot and can cause the gasket to blow.
Also use brass nuts on the securing bolts - steel ones expand too fast and come loose.
Regards David |
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Terry Andrews
United Kingdom
546 Posts |
Posted - 20/03/2008 : 12:22:08
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Hi Everyone (I will not use guys any more as I have now meet European Ladies who I know read this forum!),
I know David was talking about exhaust gaskets but PLEASE BE AWARE the Asbestos replacement material within new gaskets that I have seen is water soluble!
What David has said is fine for old asbestos (new old stock) gaskets etc. Some years ago John Day showed me several 18/80 and F type new head gaskets that had failed due to water around the cooling holes which had leached away the Asbestos replacement material causing the gasket to collapse as there was ôno meatö within the sandwedge of the gasket. We got one of the failed gaskets and put it in water and nearly washed away the entire Asbestos replacement fillingö. I replaced the exhaust gasket of the TF1500 and put the old one in water and the ôfillingö just dissolved away.
So please be aware of this. Because of seeing this, I now only use solid copper head gaskets on all my Triple-M cars.
Regardsàà Terry
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David Allison
United Kingdom
665 Posts |
Posted - 20/03/2008 : 15:59:26
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Thanks for that Terry
All goes to prove that asbestos is best for some things!
Regards David |
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Cathelijne
Netherlands
744 Posts |
Posted - 20/03/2008 : 17:50:56
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Hi Terry,
Thank you!And with a capital too!
Regards,
Cathelijne Spoelstra
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Edited by - Cathelijne on 20/03/2008 17:52:16 |
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Bob Clare
United Kingdom
278 Posts |
Posted - 23/03/2008 : 10:39:12
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Starting with F 773 in 1960 (at the time by virtue of my dad's engineering factory), I've always used stainless nuts and bolts for this job and never had a problem with expansion or with galling yet (probably because I don't know what galling is) and they're always easy to undo. Please you metallurgists, am I riding for a fall (or breakage)?
Bob Clare |
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talbot
United Kingdom
718 Posts |
Posted - 23/03/2008 : 11:50:22
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Whilst this topic is still "live" can anyone comment on spraying my manifold with the high temperature paint that's available from Halfords. I've just had a new lug welded onto the flange and the whole lot has been bead blasted so it is rust free. Alternatively any suggestions where I can get the thing metal sprayed - prferably in the Glasgow area.
Cheers
jan T |
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tholden
United Kingdom
1641 Posts |
Posted - 23/03/2008 : 13:05:21
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No doubt there are others but the best high temperature exhaust paint I have found is Sperex VHT. It works brilliantly and lasts well but you have to follow the instructions on the can carefully.
Terry Holden |
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David Allison
United Kingdom
665 Posts |
Posted - 25/03/2008 : 08:54:08
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I have just read what I wrote last week (Thanks Cymber) - god I am a twit!
Brass nuts are fitted because of their resistance to corrosion.
Latterly manufacturers have used alloy steel nuts and studs on exhaust manifolds (they are cheaper than brass) - I would not advise stainless steel though.
Once used however - they should be considered consumables and replaced.
I find that stainless steel is an appalling material to work with.
Often threaded components bind or strip just for the seeming "hell of it" and we tend to use alloy steel where heat is present if at all possible.
We have found a couple of thread sealers for use on stainless threads - these are mostly oil based though and no use if heat is anywhere near.
With regard to exhaust paint - on road cars Sperex is still one of the best to use.
There is another product sold in Demon Tweeks (and other catalogues) called Kermachrome (sometimes Cermachrome).
This is painted on and then cured in an oven (wait till the chef is away) - available in either white, black or silver - this gives a better and more long lasting finish than the spray paints.
For racing or more hard used road cars though I have not found anything that stays on!
If the car gets wet when hot the exhaust starts to rust almost on contact with the first drop of rain.
Before the war they used to oil black the exhaust system - this is fine and looks great for about 10 mins after starting the engine!
Thanks for not throwing so many stones (I deserve them)
Regards David |
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John Reid
United Kingdom
705 Posts |
Posted - 25/03/2008 : 09:53:39
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A couple of comments arising from this topic:
1. An alternative to using VHT paint or vitreous enamelling on exhaust manifolds and pipes is to use "ZIP Black Grate & Barbecue Polish". Takes you back to the Victorian age when you had to black the range! I used it when I had Frank Allocca's J2 to keep the Brooklands exhaust looking smart. It does work but is more time consuming than any of the methods already mentioned because it needs to be applied regularly. Apply with a toothbrush and then wipe over with a rag, and do wear gloves unless you want black hands! I have seen it for sale on Ebay recently at around ú3.50 (Buy it Now) for a 75ml tube.
2. The most appropriate anti-seize lubricant for use in high temperature applications such as exhaust manifold nuts is nickel based. Loctite do a version, and the part number used to be 77164 but this may have been changed to N-5000 - needs checking. It is recommended both when very different metals are used together such as brass and steel and also where high alloy steels such as stainless are involved.
Nickel prevents stainless seizing and galling better than any other anti-seize and has the highest temperature rating of any anti-seize - typically up to 1300C. Its purity also limits the onset of stress corrosion, though I guess this is not a problem with our applications. A certain F1 engine manufacturer uses it regularly!
John R |
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