| Author |
 Topic  |
|
|
John James
United Kingdom
963 Posts |
 Posted - 13/10/2008 : 20:44:33
|
| I'm doing some work on the chassis of J0573 (only had the thing for 25 years!) In order to undo the front mounting pins for the rear springs it's necessary to remove the taper pins. The question is "How does one remove them?" |
|
|
Bob Hudson
United Kingdom
67 Posts |
Posted - 13/10/2008 : 21:15:39
|
Hi John
I had this problem on the PB chassis. I drilled each end of the pin the appropriate diameter just thru the depth of the support tube and was then able to unscrew the pins. When I fitted the new ones I drilled constant diameter holes and fitted modern spring pins. |
 |
|
|
George Eagle
United Kingdom
3240 Posts |
Posted - 14/10/2008 : 10:23:17
|
Hi John
I have seen a chassis where the owner simply applied force in removing the pin and amazingly it did not damage the thread in the chassis! Rather brutal and Bob's advice is the best way to proceed.
How many more Triple-M cars do you have!!
Regards George |
|
|
|
Richard Le Flufy
United Kingdom
66 Posts |
Posted - 15/10/2008 : 13:43:39
|
John
I had the same fun, even broke the drill in the hole, but the real challenge came when trying to unscrew the bolt. Using a long pipe as an extension would not budge it but eventually heating it with a gas torch freed it.
Replace with a roll pin.
Richard
RLF |
|
|
|
Steve Cooper
United Kingdom
57 Posts |
Posted - 16/10/2008 : 23:24:25
|
The taper pins normally go in from the top with the narrow end at the bottom. If you are doing a bare chassis rebuild, then turn the chassis upside down and knock them out - they are not difficult to see when all the paint and c**p is removed down to bare metal and they WILL come out. If you are changing them with the body on, then things are a little more difficult  . First remove the floorboards and then the rear body brackets and U clamps (one side at a time I suggest). Then it's brute force I'm afraid. Drilling is an option but a bit hit and miss. There is plenty of room though, to attack from the top using 1/4 drill. The last one I did, the removal was accomplished using stilsons and a piece of scaffold pole levered vertically from inside the car + a bit of heat. Because the threaded part of the shackle pin (this what they are called) normally has some case hardening on it and the taper pin is soft, a clean shear off should take place without damaging the thread. When fitting the new shackle pins, it is not necessary to refit new taper pins. Use Loctite retainer either 601 or 648 - they will not budge with this and let's face it they shouldn't need replacing again  . |
|
|
|
John James
United Kingdom
963 Posts |
Posted - 18/10/2008 : 19:37:25
|
Just a quick 'thank you' to all those who have tenderd advice. I'm still 'sparring' with the problem and will let you know how I get on.
In answer to George I have two Triple-M cars. PB0722, which is on the road and is used extensively and J3656, which has been 'sleeping' since 1965. J0573 is just a bare chassis, for which a buyer is lined up. |
|
|
|
John James
United Kingdom
963 Posts |
Posted - 22/10/2008 : 22:24:42
|
Pleased to report that both mounting pins (shackle pins)have now been released from their limpet like grip. I used the Bob Hudson method, except that I was able to drill the taper pins out completely. My "partner in crime" David Stansbie (J2 and L2 owner) showed the pins 'who was boss' by heating up the housing and making life uncomfortable for them, but even then it was a struggle to undo them.
It's possible to see where the taper pins (I'm convinced mine were parallel) are located in the housing and I took a photograph, which I'll send on to Dick for "Safety Fast!" I used a 3/16" drill to drill out the taper (parallel?) pins. |
|
|
|
Gordon
United Kingdom
692 Posts |
Posted - 23/10/2008 : 13:22:39
|
When fitting new pins has anyone found that they do not screw up tight with the lubrication in the same place on both sides of the chassis? Where should the oil distribution groove be positioned? I would have thought that they should ideally be at the top o allow the oil to distribute about the pin most easily. What is the correct orientation?
Gordon
Gordon |
|
|
|
Cymber
United Kingdom
966 Posts |
Posted - 23/10/2008 : 20:46:36
|
The lubrication oil pipe connection should be at the top which also puts the flat at the top where it is in the position of least load on the pin. To achieve this, what I did was to try both in each side and fit them each on the side where they finish up nearest this position and anticlockwise from it and then turned off the required amount from the mating faces of the pins,they are soft at this point. If they go just past the correct position shims would be the answer.
Maurice Blakey. |
|
|
|
Bruce Sutherland
United Kingdom
1567 Posts |
Posted - 23/10/2008 : 22:04:41
|
Gordon & Maurice,
Re orientation/location of the oiler fitting to the rear spring forward mounting pin - your suggestion for a 12 o'clock location for the oiler fitting presents a problem should it become blocked and it has to be removed, as it will be directly under the body mounting bracket and very difficult to access, so I suggest a good compromise would be between 45 and 90 deg towards the front of the car to give spanner access.
Also give some thought to using a TA rear spring - it has exactly the same spring dimensions and load/rate specification, but uses a metalastic rubber bush - you just have to make a special mounting pin.............no oiling maintenance required.........and put the oiler pipe in place (with no oil hole) and it will still look right .
The originality 'police' doubtless will comment!
Bruce. (PB0564) |
|
|
|
Cymber
United Kingdom
966 Posts |
Posted - 28/06/2009 : 20:59:35
|
Having just fitted my new body frame the obvious solution to the iaccessibility of the rear spring oiler when it is positioned at 12 oclock became apparrent. Just drill a 13/16" hole in the body mounting bracket in the appropriate place, This will allow access with a 5/16" BSF sosket. With appologies to those who have already thought of this.
Maurice Blakey |
|
|
|
John James
United Kingdom
963 Posts |
Posted - 30/06/2009 : 23:52:58
|
In answer to Bruce's suggestion to use a TA rear spring, this has a downside. The front of the rear spring can move sideways on the metallastic bush, as location relies on the friction between the outer diameter of the bush and the inside of the spring eye. This can happen with enthusiastic cornering.
There is, however, a fix for this using a polyurethane bush. All is revealed in a technical article by Tony Smith in the July issue of "Totally T-Type", the bi-monthly magazine of the 'T' Register. |
|
|
|
Bob Prichard
United Kingdom
188 Posts |
Posted - 01/07/2009 : 14:29:21
|
Hi John, have tried to contact you via Email, but was returned Delivery failed. Could you cantact me
many thanks
Bob |
|
|
|
John James
United Kingdom
963 Posts |
Posted - 01/07/2009 : 21:02:51
|
Hello Bob,
Dunno why it failed. I've e-mailed you off list. You can also get me at regalia@tregister.org or via the 'T' Register website (on the Committee page).
Regards,
JOHN |
|
|
|
Peter Scott
United Kingdom
1240 Posts |
Posted - 02/07/2009 : 10:09:04
|
quote:
Originally posted by John James
There is, however, a fix for this using a polyurethane bush. All is revealed in a technical article by Tony Smith in the July issue of "Totally T-Type", the bi-monthly magazine of the 'T' Register.
John
I presume that you mean the July 2009 issue which hads not yet been published?
Peter |
|
|
|
John James
United Kingdom
963 Posts |
Posted - 02/07/2009 : 20:21:34
|
Peter,
Yes, I knew what I meant, but I can't expect others to read my mind!
TTT has not yet been published, but I have the finished copies here and will be bringing a box of them to Silverstone to give out to subscribers and so save the Register some postage.
It won't be available to "the masses" until after Silverstone. |
|
|
| |
Topic |
|
Forum Locked
Topic Locked
