| Author |
 Topic  |
|
|
Dan F
USA
843 Posts |
 Posted - 08/08/2010 : 22:27:50
|
Thanks to all that have helped in the past. Today I ran the engine and decided to take the P type for a short ride. Keep in mind that I have not hooked up the wiring harness and simply have juice to the fuel pump and coil.
Checking the clutch and gear box without the engine running, the box appears to shift into all gears fine. With the engine running however, I cannot shift into any gears - simply grinding. I tried starting in gear with the clutch depressed but couldn't get out of gear and a little tough stopping !!. I have adjusted the clutch as per the short explanation in the PA manual. Does anyone have any other suggestions as to what else may be the problem ?? As a reminder, engine, clutch and gearbox were all rebuilt or checked over. Any ideas ??
thanks,
Dan |
|
|
phil
United Kingdom
149 Posts |
Posted - 09/08/2010 : 00:35:20
|
| I know nout mate, but had similar problem, turned out that the clutch had bonded through not cranking it over and depressing clutch in workshop. A seized clutch was the problem, might not be yours but hey, what do i know. hope you find a cure soon. |
 |
|
|
Nick Feakes
USA
3372 Posts |
Posted - 09/08/2010 : 01:06:07
|
Dan
Recheck the thrust-race clearance with the crankshaft in the fully rearwards position. Is your crankshaft end-float correct?
Nick
Experiment is a poor substitute for experience. |
|
|
|
kimber
United Kingdom
1529 Posts |
Posted - 09/08/2010 : 06:39:09
|
Last time I heard of a similar problem with a freshly rebuilt engine the cause was the thread on the end of the (new) crank being fractionally longer and consequentially in contact with the tip of the gearbox input shaft. It gave the effect of the clutch binding and made gear selection impossible although the clutch itself was working perfectly.
It does of course mean gearbox out for some careful measurement but if it is the problem you should see some 'polishing' on the end of the crank thread and/or the tip of the gearbox shaft. If not obvious, apply engineers blue to end of shaft and lightly reassemble/dismantle.
In the case I refer to, the problem was overcome by shaving a fraction off the end of the gearbox shaft with an angle grinder, thus avoiding a strip-down. |
Edited by - kimber on 09/08/2010 06:41:58 |
|
|
|
Terry Andrews
United Kingdom
546 Posts |
Posted - 10/08/2010 : 10:32:26
|
Dan,
Once you have tried checking all the technical things and other suggestions you may get from this forum, like the sticking clutch, clutch clearance and clutch spot clearance etc,etc. Turn you attention to lost movement within your remote.
Simple test
1 In neutral put the palm of you hand on the top on the gear knob and push to the floor against the spring and see how much up and down play you have. You should have just perceptible movement but I have known ˝ inch!!! At Silverstone one year, I showed someone that 80% of the Triple-M cars had too much play here.  Originally, there were brass shims between the extension and the Octagon turret. As the ball of the gear lever wears the aluminium, the shims are taken out. Once all the shims are taken out then the gear lever just carries on wearing and the play increases. It is not unknown for the gear leaver to pop out of the top of the turret!!! This has the effect of lost movement. Depending on how you move the gear selection whether you get a good change or not. So if you are use to the wear, then you may be OK but it is not how it should be.
2 If you take of the remote from the gear box there are other places of wear. The end of the gear leaver where it goes into the rod, the ball and socket wares. It is not uncommon to have the little ball brake off. I used to carry a spare as I have seen this happen. I leant my spare to someone on a rally 6 years ago and have not had it returned. 
3 The finger at the other end should have a bulge at the end. This usually wears as well, so they usually need to be built up and ground back to shape.
I had intermittent gear changing problems when I first had the P type on the road and then I was advised of the above. Correcting this wear make a vast difference when added together to get the gear change back to how it was meant to be.   I subsequently have done all my remotes on the cars I am restoring. I have lent them to one or two people while they had their remotes repaired and reported what a difference it makes….. just a thought and easy to check….. regards …..Terry
|
|
|
|
DSW
Germany
95 Posts |
Posted - 10/08/2010 : 20:28:33
|
Terry,
I must have got to 1/4" vertical play in the gear lever now, and was wondering how best to remove it. I keep it well greased hoping this will prolong life.
Have you any advice on the best repair approach, since one does not want to experiment too much with the rare turret? The lever is pretty easy to repair/make or even buy, but I was unsure of the wisdom of attempting welding up the worn turret, and remaking the "hemispherical" recess (before the lever has actually popped out!)
regards,
David |
|
|
|
Dan F
USA
843 Posts |
Posted - 12/08/2010 : 12:13:10
|
Thanks for all the help guys. I've check alot of the ideas suggested that I could with the gearbox connected to the engine. I've decided to separate the gearbox from the engine. anything I should not before removing ??
Thanks,
Dan |
|
|
|
Cymber
United Kingdom
966 Posts |
Posted - 12/08/2010 : 15:26:38
|
Is there a clever person who can weld up and remachine a worn turret?
Maurice Blakey. |
|
|
|
Nick Feakes
USA
3372 Posts |
Posted - 12/08/2010 : 15:50:15
|
Hi Maurice
It is probably easier to make an insert (like a valve seat insert) and glue it into place.
Nick
Experiment is a poor substitute for experience. |
|
|
|
DADA
Luxembourg
127 Posts |
Posted - 13/08/2010 : 11:23:33
|
Yes I have done it a few times with excellent results. I have pictures of the work involved, but I am not ready to go trough that flickr procedure. So if someone would like to get pictures or a description, please contact me offline.
norbert |
|
|
|
Peter Scott
United Kingdom
1240 Posts |
Posted - 14/08/2010 : 19:15:40
|
Nick
Norbert kindly sent me a write-up and several photographs explaining how to fix a worn gear lever. I would recommend that these be loaded onto the 'Document downloads' as I am sure that many members would find the information useful.
Norbert - I trust that you are happy for me to make this suggestion.
Peter |
|
|
|
Terry Andrews
United Kingdom
546 Posts |
Posted - 16/08/2010 : 20:09:15
|
Hi Everyone,
Sorry for the late reply but I have just come back from the EXCELLENT Flat Cap & Whippet event organised by Terry Hartley and Bob Walker.
As mentioned to get over the problem of the gear leaver ball coming through the top of the turret, an insert will need to be made. From memory this was a very good engineering fit with a step so that there was no need for any welding. A ball cutter was used to cut the spherical cup to take the ball of the gear leaver in the insert. We did one for Norbert so he may be able to tell you if you are corresponding on the gear leaver issue as well. Regards…..Terry
|
|
|
|
Nick Feakes
USA
3372 Posts |
Posted - 17/08/2010 : 00:55:05
|
Hi Peter
Send me the info (in pdf format if you can) and I will add it to the forum.
Nick
Experiment is a poor substitute for experience. |
|
|
|
Peter Scott
United Kingdom
1240 Posts |
Posted - 17/08/2010 : 19:56:34
|
Hi Nick
I have sent the 'words' as a pdf file but there are also a number of photographs which are jpeg.
Peter |
|
|
| |
Topic |
|
Forum Locked
Topic Locked
