| Author |
 Topic  |
|
Peter Scott
United Kingdom
1240 Posts |
 Posted - 23/08/2011 : 12:22:10
|
In previous threads Glyptal has been recommended for sealing the inside of the block and also for 'older porous ally sumps'. But how do you clean the sump? 
If it is not clean there is a danger the paint will peel off. 
Peter |
Edited by - Peter Scott on 23/08/2011 16:58:20 |
|
|
Dow
United Kingdom
490 Posts |
Posted - 23/08/2011 : 13:16:11
|
A P Type owner I know, waited till his wife was out for the day, and put the sump in the dishwasher. He said it was the cleanest it had ever been. Sounds risky to me !! (from a desire for a quiet life point of view that is )
Don't worry,I wont let on who it was Roger.
Regards
David D |
Edited by - Dow on 23/08/2011 13:38:37 |
 |
|
|
Richard Hardy
United Kingdom
2165 Posts |
Posted - 24/08/2011 : 00:09:17
|
Be careful using detergents like washing up liquid, washing powder and other soaps on these aluminium castings as it can easily set up a chemical reaction with the alloy and wreck the sump. Vapour blasting seems to be the best solution
Regards
Rich H
Vintage MG Parts |
|
|
|
etlanpa
United Kingdom
560 Posts |
Posted - 24/08/2011 : 10:32:44
|
The safest option (from both domestic & engineering fronts!) is to find a local engine reconditioner - they often have an 'industrial' size parts washer that gets components spotless prior to assembly.
However, I got my magnesium sump clean using cellulose thinners to get rid of the oil & sludge (literally filled it with a pint or so and attacked with fine wire brush & old toothbrushes,)rinsed with more clean thinners, then washed with detergent and then rinsed with LOTS of fresh hot water. Left to dry for a couple of days & then one generous coat of Glyptal (if the sump is really bad, you can pour it in, rotate & drain).
No leaks since  |
|
|
|
Peter Scott
United Kingdom
1240 Posts |
Posted - 25/08/2011 : 18:27:22
|
The sump problem has deteriorated further. Whilst I was cleaning the lowest part of the sump ie the area under the gauze strainer, the pricker I was using went right through the bottom of the sump. This area is very badly corroded. I measured some of the other depressions and found that some are so deep that the wall is only 1 mm thick.
So what suggestions do you have to repair this area? Other than buy a new one.
Peter |
|
|
|
George Eagle
United Kingdom
3245 Posts |
Posted - 25/08/2011 : 20:21:14
|
Hi Peter
I reckon the safest bet is to buy a new one!
Georgequote:
Originally posted by Peter Scott
In previous threads Glyptal has been recommended for sealing the inside of the block and also for 'older porous ally sumps'. But how do you clean the sump?
If it is not clean there is a danger the paint will peel off.
Peter
|
|
|
|
Peter Green
United Kingdom
1682 Posts |
Posted - 25/08/2011 : 20:43:25
|
Peter
There is no need to buy a new sump, I have repaired several sumps with worse corrosion than yours with 'Devcon Aluminium Putty' This is a two part aluminium epoxy putty, it is not cheap but it is well worth the money (much cheaper than a new sump) I have also used it for repairing corroded water pimps.
Peter |
|
|
|
Peter Scott
United Kingdom
1240 Posts |
Posted - 25/08/2011 : 21:28:43
|
Peter
Thank you very much for your reply. I had thought about using 'JB weld' which is what you saw on the inlet and outlet pipes of my water pump the other day. However that is designed principally for repairing steel components, even thought it appears to adhere well to ally.
I will use Devcon to repair my sump. What method did you use to clean the sump first?
For sealing the casting I have two options either Glyptal or vacuum impregnation by Impregnation Services Ltd who are recommended by forumists on the VSCC forum. Do you have any views on these two options. The other alternative is to leave as is and wipe the odd oil drip off with a rag.
Peter |
|
|
|
John Reid
United Kingdom
705 Posts |
Posted - 25/08/2011 : 22:22:35
|
Peter,
Like Peter G, I have used Devcon Aluminium to repair sumps and water pumps with first class results. It has also been used to fix the odd problem on a certain F1 engine...!
I would recommend vacuum impregnation for sealing castings. Once again, this is standard practice for aluminium castings particularly where the wall thickness is deliberately thin to save weight. The company can also do the cleaning. Ultrasonic cleaning is pretty effective and fifteen years ago we used to use Trike in the tank - probably now regarded as unacceptable!
John R |
|
|
|
Peter Scott
United Kingdom
1240 Posts |
Posted - 26/08/2011 : 08:58:50
|
John
Thanks for your advice. I have ordered some Devcon Aluminium.
I sent Impregnation Services a couple of pictures of my sump and his comment was that it is probably clean enough as is. This surprises me as I thought that cleanliness was critical before impregnation. He did recommend vapour blasting but more for cosmetic reasons. He cannot do vapour blasting yet but hopes to be able to do so in a months time. I have asked him just how clean it needs to be before impregnation.
Trike is a definite NO NO. My last job for Timken was selling the factory site in Northampton. The costs involved in cleaning up 60 years of trike was horrendous.
Peter |
|
|
|
Dow
United Kingdom
490 Posts |
|
|
DickMorbey
United Kingdom
3683 Posts |
Posted - 26/08/2011 : 12:08:48
|
David
Puts a whole new meaning on 'procurement'!
Best wishes
Dick |
|
|
|
Terry Andrews
United Kingdom
546 Posts |
Posted - 26/08/2011 : 17:21:37
|
Hi Peter,
I agree with both Peter and John regards to using Devcon aluminium on Triple-M sumps. I would add that if you have holes I have plugged these with aluminium rivets first and then used the Devcon. Terry A
|
|
|
|
Peter Scott
United Kingdom
1240 Posts |
Posted - 26/08/2011 : 17:54:31
|
Thanks Terry
I have arranged to get my sump vapour blasted locally. Then I will plug the hole with an ally rivet and repair the corrosion with Devcon. When that is done I will send it to Impregnation Services.
So the decisions are made. Thanks to those who contributed.
Now we can leave this thread to those who wish to discuss mermaids.
Peter |
|
|
|
JMH
United Kingdom
913 Posts |
Posted - 26/08/2011 : 21:32:09
|
The bottom of 007s gearbox has has been patched using "Belzona" metal polymer for the best part of 30 years. It's the most oil-tight part of the whole car!
JH |
|
|
|
pinion
United Kingdom
31 Posts |
Posted - 27/08/2011 : 09:40:21
|
| I have been using Belzona for 45 years.Last job was P type engine block.to make it water tight again!.Marvelous product. |
|
|
|
Topic |
|
Forum Locked
Topic Locked
