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Gordon

United Kingdom
691 Posts

Posted - 01/03/2012 : 07:29:59

Geoff,
I don't know why you had the difficulty with the PVA. 2 things come to mind - a) were the veneer sheets completely flt before applying PVA and b) as the clamping system used applying even pressure over the whole surface? I used backing boards and G clamps and the use of thermal wallpaper is critical to get even pressure everywhere. It would have been better to have used one of those clothes storage bags that you can evacuate with your hoover to get an even 14 psi everywhere if you avoid wrinkles in the bag material! I cut the holes for the instruments before applying the veneer and then cut out veneer from the holes with a sharp Stanley knife before sanding and lacquering. In retrospect I would allow longer time for curing the lacquer before applying he next batch of coats to ensure it has fully cured and finished shrinking.

Gordon
PB 0331, MG4473
Derby

Cymber

United Kingdom
966 Posts

Posted - 02/03/2012 : 21:37:42

My thanks to you all for your Helpful replies. There is however one question left unanswered, that is what laquer to use. Is polyurethane varnish suitable for instance? I have used it previously on other jobs and find it hard wearing and reasonably waterproof.

Maurice.

Horst Wendling

Germany
464 Posts

Posted - 02/03/2012 : 22:02:04

Maurice,
PU -laquer is one of the best solutions.
It is the same as the professionals use for floors, stairs and so on.
A second chance is to use 2-k Epoxy from a Car painter.
I think the best from both is, what you can better handle and buy.

Horst
PA492

Gordon

United Kingdom
691 Posts

Posted - 03/03/2012 : 06:47:11

I would strongly recommend a 2 part clear lacquer. You want to be able to apply 4 coats one on top of the other as soon as each coat has gelled - about 10 minutes. Ensure that you measure out exactly the recommended proportions to ensure correct curing. You need the thickness to build up to allow for the rubbing down to ensure that the final product has good thickness to provide long life and durable finish. After 4 coats allow to fully cure - the longer the better! This is to ensure that you get all the shrinkage to occur before the final sanding sequence. My experience leads me to believe that it is advisable to wait at least a week before the final sanding and to keep the board in a warm atmosphere otherwise sinkage can occur where there are any minute holes through the veneer you may have missed.

Gordon
PB 0331, MG4473
Derby

Bill Abbott

United Kingdom
61 Posts

Posted - 03/03/2012 : 19:59:48

I'm a great fan of " Rustins Plastic coating". This is something I used at school woodwork some 50 yeras ago and is still available. It comes in an ideal sized Kit (about �12 ish) which is just the thing for a dashboard.This comprises The Plastic coating and a hardener, a brush cleaner and even burnishing cream. It can be polished to a very high gloss or after the final de nibbing, can rubbed down with wire wool and wax to get a beautigul satin ( and waterproof) finish.
You will probably need to order via your local colour supplies or good hardware shop.I prefere it to Polyurethene which takes so long to harden.
Happy polishing
Bill

Bill Abbott

United Kingdom
61 Posts

Posted - 03/03/2012 : 20:04:06

Hi
Just seen that you can get the kit on Amazon for �10.40
Just a thought
Cheers Bill

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