| Author |
 Topic  |
|
|
Robin Macmillan
United Kingdom
415 Posts |
 Posted - 15/03/2012 : 21:37:27
|
Dear All,
Shortly I intend to drive my PB to and over the Pyrenees. I would be interested to hear of fellow MMMers experiences of mechanical failures. I have seen references to stub axles (mostly related to taper bearings and racing) and personally know of a gearstick fracture. How common are half shaft failures and other problems eg suspension, differential, steering etc. Any views suggestions or advice gratefully received.
robin
PB 0527 |
|
|
DickMorbey
United Kingdom
3677 Posts |
Posted - 16/03/2012 : 08:01:41
|
A few years ago the threaded end of the pinion of the crown wheel and pinion sheared. It was repaired by inserting and Loctiting a replacement threaded end and all has been well ever since.
Dick Morbey
PA/PB 0743
Henley-on-Thames, Oxon, UK |
 |
|
|
Peter Scott
United Kingdom
1240 Posts |
Posted - 16/03/2012 : 08:56:07
|
Robin
When was your fuel pump last rebuilt? If it was some years ago, it would be a good idea to rebuild it. A Burlen rebuild kit costs about £30.
Peter |
|
|
|
DickMorbey
United Kingdom
3677 Posts |
Posted - 16/03/2012 : 09:03:46
|
Just remembered ...
I have also had past problems of the front spring top plate shearing. (This is the right-angled plate to which the Hartford mounting pin is bolted.)
Dick Morbey
PA/PB 0743
Henley-on-Thames, Oxon, UK |
|
|
|
etlanpa
United Kingdom
560 Posts |
Posted - 16/03/2012 : 09:50:07
|
Following on from the fuel pump comment - whilst rebuilding it I'd convert it from points to solid state (Burlen do a conversion kit).
I'd also check brakes & cooling carefully (fit an electric fan?) if you're venturing into the mountains! You may also have to fiddle with the mixture when running at altitude...
I'm sure Gerhard M will have some suggestions/advice too 
Oh and another thing, try to avoid rubbish fuel - stick to the good brands and also use super unleaded....preferably with little or no ethanol (Texaco, BP, Esso). |
Edited by - etlanpa on 16/03/2012 09:52:17 |
|
|
|
David Allison
United Kingdom
665 Posts |
Posted - 16/03/2012 : 11:16:21
|
To be honest it very much depends on how you drive the car.
Dont spin the wheels on hair pins and you shouldnt break the halfshafts or diff.
Stop when the temperature gets up and you wont boil the radiator.
Most of the problems you are likely to get are either cooling (take extra water and keep an eye on the temperature of both water and oil), wearing parts (my guess is that you will set off from home with a well serviced car - new brake linings etc...) and anno dominii (which you can do very little about).
Half shafts might be worth taking - but then again if you are careful you shouldnt break one - plus you either have to take them with hubs pressed on (which takes up space) or find someone with a press (which is never as easy as it sounds).
Broken gear lever - this is unlucky - better to have a look at the existing one and replace it before you go than take a spare. Plus if it does break you can normally bodge up something to get you to the next town (but then good fabricators can be harder to find than someone with a press for your halfshaft).
I wouldnt personally mess around with fuel mixture in the mountains - or indeed worry about fuel quality too much in Spain either Repsol do a 95 and a 97 ron fuel and are a VERY reputable brand (they even supply fuel to the works Honda Moto GP team).
Just drive normally and keep an eye on your gauges - the car will tell you if there is something amiss. You may need to alter the mixture a couple of flats richer if you intend driving the car hard high up in the mountians, but to be honest it is nothing that can be fixed by driving carefully.
If you do alter the mixture - make a note of what you did - then you can return the settings back easily.
Listen out for pre-ignition though - you will have drop in power and a tinkling noise under heavy throttle at low rpm.
If so you may need to back off the ignition timing - or drive more gently and dont adjust anything?
I would avoid buying fuel from smaller fuel stations - but I do that in the UK too.
The smaller stations tend to keep the fuel in the tanks for longer periods and this can lead to fuel quality issues - but again this is less true now than even 20 years ago.
I would basically give the whole car a very good going over - grease and oil the chassis thoroughly - change the brake linings and then give the car a good test drive to bed everything in again.
Make sure your tyres (including spare) are all in good order (the right size too especially the spare as this can be boring) and have enough tread to last your full return journey.
I would take 5 litres of engine oil and a 5 litre container of water (refill the water at each oppertunity).
I would take a spare vertical drive coupling (with bolts, nuts and washers), a foot pump and a spare inner tube.
You might like to carry some spare tyre valves and a valve key too.
Take a selection of tools, spanners, screwdriver, wheel mallet, and some pliers (long nose ones are always usefull as well as butt nose) and also a tube of instant gasket.
Some 0.25 wire for badges - also a roll of tank tape and also insulation tape (also for bodging).
Bodging is a terrible term and I use it gaurdedly - because I really mean roadside repairs.
There is nothing worse than breaking down at the side of the road for the sake of a bit of wire to hold your silencer in place - or a bit of tape to stop the map from flapping around while you are trying to concentrate on the fabulous view!
Chances are that nothing will actually go wrong!
Have a great drive
Regards David |
|
|
|
David Allison
United Kingdom
665 Posts |
Posted - 16/03/2012 : 11:36:45
|
Woops almost forgot - you will also need high viz bibs, warning triangle and a complete pack of bulbs for the lights.
It is the law in France to carry spare lamp bulbs, high viz bibs and a warning triangle.
I would also get a European Road Assist & Recovery in place to cover the car in the event that something goes wrong that cant be fixed easily - but it is frowned upon to call them out because it is cold and raining just so you can ride in the heated vehicle cab! :)
Regards David |
|
|
|
Blue M
United Kingdom
1472 Posts |
Posted - 16/03/2012 : 13:26:14
|
| Fuel pump - buy a new one! Take a head gasket and a spare rad cap. |
|
|
|
John Reid
United Kingdom
704 Posts |
Posted - 16/03/2012 : 13:36:54
|
And don't forget the recently introduced law in France to carry a breathalyser kit, though the IAM say that it won't be implemented until November to allow time for the word to spread.
John R |
|
|
|
JMH
United Kingdom
911 Posts |
Posted - 16/03/2012 : 13:51:03
|
Alternatively:Load up the car & drive!
Seriously, if your car is well maintained, all you will need is the basics. If you have a look at your half-shafts, they will almost certainly be showing signs of twisting & stress long before failure (or at least a holiday's worth beforehand) Just remember to take a small battery charger to safeguard against dynamo failure.
If you take too much stuff there'll be no room for you (or wine on your return).
JH
|
|
|
|
Allan Bentley
United Kingdom
257 Posts |
Posted - 16/03/2012 : 16:34:07
|
Robin.
The Pyrenees were there this morning and looked magnificent.
UK to SW France is a great drive and good roads. I have done this drive several times to my home near Toulouse. My two failures in 45 years of driving my P-Type were:-
Condenser which was failing hot, so difficult to find as the car felt it was running out of fuel!
The second part to carry is a spare key for the vertical drive. If you have the taper one this is less likely to wear and put the timing out. If it breaks the engine stops. If it is worn then the 'variable valve timing' will show up in performance. I was asked to sort out a professionally rebuilt engine because it would not run evenly or slowly. I found the vertical drive could be moved about 10 degrees. Both these parts can go in your passengers handbag!
All the other parts sound a bit heavy to carry, better to have a good recovery insurance.
Village garages in France are very helpful as they can now only work on the older non digital cars and have the ability to make your car work again.
I use Supermarket RON 95 fuel with nothing added. My MGB has consumed this in a standard engine for the past 10 years of driving to work and about. Watch the well known brands as E10 is on line here and I don't know what it may do to the pump diaphragm
Allan |
|
|
|
Robin Macmillan
United Kingdom
415 Posts |
Posted - 16/03/2012 : 18:58:37
|
Dear All,
thanks so far and I am sure more will come. Interesting to hear of the front spring plate as when I was "doing" this part of the rebuild I found a crack just where the plate angles to form the Hartford fixation point. Perhaps something for others also to check as it may be a weak point. This is the sort of information that is useful for everyone.
robin
PB 0527 |
|
|
|
bugeye
Germany
11 Posts |
Posted - 16/03/2012 : 19:34:41
|
Hi all, maybe a little bit away from MMM cars, but I just got a book with the title : " Drive Them til the Roads Wear Out " by Deidre Pyle.A fantastic story of two australians driving their MG TC round the world in 1993. That little book even will give you a lot of infos how to prepare a car and is entertaining to read when in bed after a hard days work.
100 points from me
cheers
Piet
|
|
|
|
Peter Scott
United Kingdom
1240 Posts |
Posted - 16/03/2012 : 20:32:02
|
quote:
Originally posted by etlanpa
Following on from the fuel pump comment - whilst rebuilding it I'd convert it from points to solid state (Burlen do a conversion kit).
When an electronic pump dies you are bxxxxxxx. When a mechanical pump dies you hit it with a spanner and it ticks away again A rebuilt mechanical pump for me every time. (And CB points the same)
Peter |
|
|
|
Bob Grunau
Canada
290 Posts |
Posted - 17/03/2012 : 13:44:01
|
"I have seen references to stub axles (mostly related to taper bearings and racing)" was in the opening statement to this topic.
Yes stub axles do break, but the use of tapered roller bearing will not contribute to these breakages IF YOU USE THE BEARING Spacer, suitably shimmed, and a tight stub axle nut. Many years ago it was common practise to simply replace ball bearings with tapered rollers and leave out the bearing spacer and have a loose nut. This was wrong and significantly weakened the assembly. The spacer and tight nut means the effective diameter of the assembly is increased and also the strength. The wheel hub does not care if you are using ball or tapered rollers, but you must use the bearing spacer and tight nut. This will mean shimming the length of the spacer if using tapered rollers. I have in stock new stub axle inserts which can be installed in a steering knuckle to repair a cracked stub axle. This has been succesfully done on many TCs, TAs, J2, PA and N types.
Bob, Canada |
|
|
|
David Griffiths
United Kingdom
47 Posts |
Posted - 17/03/2012 : 20:59:05
|
Many years ago an elderly ex motor mechanic,who had been driving since the 1920's gave me some advice
Son he said if it will go 5 miles it will go 50 if it does that it will go 500!
by the way one item I do always carry is a spare rotor arm for the distributor,
my only roadside failure in my P type in 43 years was a failed rotor arm.
David |
|
|
| |
Topic |
|
Forum Locked
Topic Locked
