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 MG J2 weather gear pattern
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Russel Hertzog

USA
21 Posts

Posted - 20/07/2024 :  13:31:01  Show Profile
Does anyone have a pattern for sale I can use, or know where I can buy one? I need the pattern for the top, and would also like one for the side curtains. - russelhertzog@gmail.com

Russel Hertzog

Simon Johnston

United Kingdom
6130 Posts

Posted - 20/07/2024 :  15:39:05  Show Profile
Russel,
As car bodies vary so much, you may find it hard to get a pattern but may I suggest you have a look at this article - https://www.triple-mregister.org/uploads/retro/J-type_hood.pdf

Simon J
J3437
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Russel Hertzog

USA
21 Posts

Posted - 20/07/2024 :  16:30:09  Show Profile
Thanks Simon J. I was looking for exactly that article which was recommended on another thread, but couldn't find it (my searching limitations, I'm sure). Once I read it, may I get back to you with a few questions? I have plenty of double duck material from "Whoolies Trim."

Q1 would be: My J2 has a Steve Gilbert body., but the top frame frame was not installed by the PO, and I am looking for the mounting hole coordinates on the wheel arches.

Russel Hertzog
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Simon Johnston

United Kingdom
6130 Posts

Posted - 20/07/2024 :  18:36:49  Show Profile
Russel,
That very question in answered in the article under the sub heading 'Hood Frame’

And not finding the article is no reflection on your searching skills as the search function only extends to the Forum and not to the entire site. You’d have to use Google search for that. For example entering the following in the address bar of your browser will find the article straightaway:

J2 hood site:triple-M register.org

The general format to search any website is <search terms> site:<website address> (Leave a space between the search terms and 'site:’ but no space before the website address. )



Simon J
J3437

Edited by - Simon Johnston on 20/07/2024 18:39:48
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Simon Johnston

United Kingdom
6130 Posts

Posted - 20/07/2024 :  21:05:13  Show Profile
Correction - my auto correct got the Register website wrong in the search function. It should be:
J2 hood site:triple-mregister.org

Simon J
J3437
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Russel Hertzog

USA
21 Posts

Posted - 20/07/2024 :  22:45:11  Show Profile
Thanks Simon,

I just read through your article. It is extremely helpful.
I also think, it is enough for me to get my project started:

(1) I'll first mount the top frame as per the article, then work up a cloth pattern.
I may try to find another J2 nearby (if I can in Texas...?) with full weather gear
to get some idea of how many pieces and general shapes needed.

(2)Then with the top-frame in place on my car, cut a rough pattern, make adjustments etc.,
and finally start with final cloth. I may decide to use new material, since mine is tan.

(3) A final question/unresolved issue is the lift-DOT studs on the windshield.
My problem is that none were installed on my car's windshield.
Do I need to remove the glass - before I drill and tap holes to install the studs?
Or, does the frame somehow prevent the glass from reaching
all the way to the full depth of the "U-shape" frame?

Do you or anyone else have thoughts or recommendations?

Russel Hertzog
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Simon Johnston

United Kingdom
6130 Posts

Posted - 20/07/2024 :  23:05:20  Show Profile
Russel,
I don’t think you can rely on the glass not interfering with drilling the holes for the Lift The Dot studs - you’d probably be better taking the screen apart. But I’m curious why it doesn’t have the holes. Is it a newly made frame?

My recollection is that on the J frame the holes are tapped - 2BA I think - and the studs just screw into the threaded holes in the frame. But I think that on the P Type frames, nuts were used to make for a stronger joint and that’s possibly worth thinking about.

Simon J
J3437
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Russel Hertzog

USA
21 Posts

Posted - 20/07/2024 :  23:26:14  Show Profile
Simon,

Yes, I assume that when the car was recommisioned with the Steve Gilbert body the windshield frame was also new. I have a 4" stack of restoration and history of my car (J3596), which I can review again (it has been quite a few years, since I acquired it and read everything).


I've replaced glass on post-war T-Types, so I'm up to the challenge, but the J2-frame is a big more difficult, I think, since it only comes apart on the bottom rail. There is a wiper mounted, so I was hopeful that the frame was designed to limit the glass. Thinks for the info on the stud thread size. (2BA).

BTW, was your acquaintance John Morris an American? I had a college professor (1960-64) with that name, and he was into British cars, too.

Thanks again Simon, for your generous help. - Russ

Russel Hertzog
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Simon Johnston

United Kingdom
6130 Posts

Posted - 21/07/2024 :  07:02:33  Show Profile
Russ,
Taking the J2 frame apart is easy. There are more-or-less right angle brackets holding the frame together with screws at each lower corner. Undo these from the main part of the frame and the bottom rail will come away complete with the brackets and you can then slide the glass out. Given that you have a wiper motor mounted it may well be that the glass doesn’t extend any further than the holes for the wiper but better safe than sorry.

John Morris is from Wisconsin and an occasional contributor to this board

Simon J
J3437
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Russel Hertzog

USA
21 Posts

Posted - 21/07/2024 :  12:03:44  Show Profile
Thanks again, Simon, for your instructions on disassembling the windshield frame. I checked the NAMMMR 2024 Car & Member Directory, and he is listed there. Maybe I will give him a call sometime.

Russel Hertzog
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Oz34

United Kingdom
2539 Posts

Posted - 21/07/2024 :  18:28:35  Show Profile
Simon, you mention the P and two things occur. 1) My glass has two relieved areas for the wiper pivots and 2) It's been a few years now, but I don't recall any nuts on the L-t-D studs. I think they are just screwed straight in and left. Russel, I most certainly would not rely on there being space between them and the glass. I measured and cut them to length, fitted them and checked they were not proud of the frame and then probably fitted the glass. I can't think of any need to remove them again, but even if you do, you already know they will not touch the glass.
The other thought is that, on the P anyway, I just could not get on with the rubber seal and used instead a black mastic which sets dry but flexible. Messy to use but in the end, for me at any rate, easier.

Dave
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Simon Johnston

United Kingdom
6130 Posts

Posted - 21/07/2024 :  20:50:49  Show Profile
Dave,
I really can’t recall where I got the idea that P Type screens had nuts. Probably just my fertile imagination! But I did use plates on the inside of the screen with threaded holes to take the screws that secure the side strengthening pieces onto the frame. They too were just screwed into the thin frame and one, at least, was decidedly dodgy - hence the plates.

But back to the Lift The Dot studs - Russ, don’t forget they’re the short ones, not the long ones.

Simon J
J3437
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