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Ian Grace
USA
660 Posts |
 Posted - 10/07/2007 : 20:15:54
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| A friend is having all sorts of problems extracting the tail end bearing frmm his M flywheel. He's tried all the usual stuff - WD40, heat, swearing at it, etc. Is there a special puller for this - there is not much space between the bearing and the crankshaft nut to get anything in there. Yes, he has removed tghe circlip! |
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kimber
United Kingdom
1529 Posts |
Posted - 11/07/2007 : 08:20:00
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Ian, I had the same problem once, years ago. I resolved it by making a special 'internal' bearing puller out of various bits and pieces I had laying around in the workshop. I believe I may still have it somewhere. I'm in the workshop today so I'll try to find it + photograph it for you.
Very few special tools are essential for working on Triple M cars, although I have made quite a few over the years. It is very satisfying when you use them for a second or third time many years later. |
Edited by - kimber on 11/07/2007 08:26:46 |
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talbot
United Kingdom
718 Posts |
Posted - 11/07/2007 : 08:49:58
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Ian,
In the UK we can buy "Rawlbolts" which are used to secure heavy shelves to a brick wall etc. As you tighten them up they expand into the hole in the wall and create a strong grip. I've used these to pull out blind bearings by gripping on the inner bore.
As a last resort you can punch out the collar that separates the balls, move them to one side and remove the inner race. If you then run a MIG weld bead across the inside of the outer race, in a couple of places, you will find that (hopefully) when it cools the welds will contract and pull in the race which will then fall mout of the bore.
Good luck!
Jan t |
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Blue M
United Kingdom
1474 Posts |
Posted - 12/07/2007 : 19:52:48
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Get some Plasticene , poke it in the hole and punch it down with a drift the same size. The Plasticene forces out the bearing. All you have to do then is get the stuff out of the bearing, but its probably best to use a new one.
Ian |
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kimber
United Kingdom
1529 Posts |
Posted - 12/07/2007 : 22:56:02
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Ian, I remember really struggling to get one of those bearings out. The rawlbolt method was considered but the end of the crank can be quite close to the back face of the bearing.
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1382/791080513_c628234236.jpg?v=0
Herewith rough drawing of puller I made out of bits and pieces from the scrap bin. It worked a treat. I have since cannibalised the puller to make something else and there is not much of it left.
The 2 detachable 'legs' were made out of angle section and it was necessary to file the ends quite thin to get them to slide behind the bearing centre. The square section shaft was then bolted in between the 2 'legs'.
Hope that helps. If I still had it you'd be welcome to borrow it.
I've been meaning to write an article for the Register about the various special tools I have made over the years, most of which I still have. Maybe I'll get round to it some day soon. |
Edited by - kimber on 12/07/2007 22:59:38 |
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Blue M
United Kingdom
1474 Posts |
Posted - 13/07/2007 : 09:49:20
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Ian
Re: the above Plasticene method. This was passed on to me by my father, who rebuilt engines for a living from the late 1930s onwards. Obviously he always went for non-damaging solutions. If the bearing is not to tight a really heavy grease will do it, but Plasticene is foolproof.The main thing is to use a drift thats a good fit inside the bearing and keep putting more stuff in so that you pack the space behind. Quite a lot has to go in. When its full give the drift a good clout. As the bearing starts to move you have to keep putting more stuff in. Make sure there's enough in so you don't hit the crank. Plasticene is made from clay and linseed oil, so it will melt away if you leave the bearing to soak in parrafin.
Regards
Ian |
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