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 Wet Weather Tips- not Waving but Drowning.
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Bob Stringfield

United Kingdom
854 Posts

Posted - 31/08/2008 :  15:55:10  Show Profile
Given that this is the dullest and wettest August since 1942 (The year of my birth - no wonder it has been said that I am as exciting as a wet week-end.) rain is to be expected.

No surprise, then, that I returned today from 40 or so miles in the pouring rain in PA 0603, during which I was assailed by a collapsing hood and, to put it politely, inadequate wipers.

The rain was so heavy that the hood was erected (Nice to write that word at my age!) for only the second time in my ownership. Thanks to Michael Tietze, it is thoroughly to original pattern and completely waterproof.

Has the membership any tips for improving the sweep-rate of the wipers and the tendency of the hood-frame not to remain over-centre over the bumps?

Peter Scott

United Kingdom
1240 Posts

Posted - 31/08/2008 :  18:53:48  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by Bob Stringfield

Has the membership any tips for improving the sweep-rate of the wipers and the tendency of the hood-frame not to remain over-centre over the bumps?



Treat the windscreen with Rainex and forget about the wipers.

Peter
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Cathelijne

Netherlands
744 Posts

Posted - 31/08/2008 :  22:08:46  Show Profile
Even better than Rainex, I think, would be Aquapel. It's a BMW product, so try the local dealership. Costs about 20 pounds, but well worth the money!

Good luck!
Cathelijne Spoelstra

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Rodney Collins

United Kingdom
424 Posts

Posted - 01/09/2008 :  15:58:09  Show Profile
Bob you could do what i have done, do away with the hood etc and the windscreen replace with aero screen and carry some water proofs. yes I get wet but what fun!

Rodney
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John Reid

United Kingdom
704 Posts

Posted - 01/09/2008 :  16:19:31  Show Profile
Bob,

All my 12v motors have quietly ceased working but a work colleague gave me a brand new 6v motor which I fitted last year. I know it's not good practice, but used sensibly in short bursts on 12v it does the job at high speed, aided by Rainex! Still working OK. There was a forum item on "Converting 6v wiper to 12v" which I started in November 2005 which had plenty of comment - I have to say I have followed Steve Cooper's suggestion, but Lew Palmer who has experience of rebuilding these motors, cautions otherwise. Worth a read through.

We don't have a hood either, so all journeys are undertaken with full wet weather gear to hand. Character building!

John R
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Bruce Sutherland

United Kingdom
1565 Posts

Posted - 01/09/2008 :  17:04:08  Show Profile
Hello Bob,
"Has the membership any tips for improvingàààààààààààà.the tendency of the hood-frame not to remain over-centre over the bumps?"

Beyond those replies about improving the Lucas CWX wiper motor performance, IÆm trying to understand your hood-frame problem.
I presume you mean you suffered a hood collapse with the vertical leg 1st joint above the main mounting pivot on the rear wheel arch moving forward from its over-centre æknee lock-outÆ position?
If this is the case, then my PB frame has a pair of approx. 1/8ödia holes just above the pivot pin through which a locking pin could be inserted. I have a photo showing this if you send me your email address.

Bruce.
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MaGic_GV

United Kingdom
868 Posts

Posted - 01/09/2008 :  17:20:43  Show Profile
I have a distant memory of the hood collapse problem, and if remember rightly its to do with the angle of the hood irons. When I had a new hood made up, we experimented with the position by adjusting the webbing which holds the frame in place until it was firm, then the hood was made so that it pulled nicely tight. It hasn't collapsed since but I confess to not having covered a great deal of triple-m miles recently...

Graham

ps during the above process we discovered that the hood iron mounting positions had been drilled differently on each side of the car, apparently at the factory! GVA
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Terry Andrews

United Kingdom
546 Posts

Posted - 01/09/2008 :  18:01:31  Show Profile
Hi Guys,

The angle of the hood and itÆs positioning on the wheel arch is important as Graham says. However, I have a solution which works and has never let me down.

I got the idea from these collapsible push chairs when my children were small. The MacLean fold up push chair was designed by a guy who designed aircraft landing gear. A made a sliding square tube which slides in the hood frame legs. When you erect the hood you slide the tube over the pivot joint so that the joint is locked and. If you do not follow my explanation contact me off line and I will sent a photo.

Regardsà. Terry
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Bob Stringfield

United Kingdom
854 Posts

Posted - 01/09/2008 :  18:10:04  Show Profile

Thanks, Chaps. (Thanks persons?)

It is almost a capital offence here to put up the hood on either the MX 5, Crumbly the Chummy or the PA, a habit we have developed over forty-five or so years of motor cycling and of owning a long succession of cars with hoods. (The best? A 320i Baur BMW, 1986.)

However, long experience says that even my Hein Gericke gear isn't waterproof without the full-face and neck skirt and that the car's seats, dash, upholstery and electrics don't like it when its raining stair-rods. Nor does every passenger. Being half-blind and deaf inside the hood is the price.

Or perhaps I need one of those macho souped-up saloons in my dotage. Subaru and the like make 'em. All brute force and no skill.

The diagnoses of the hood-frame sound abour right; some vintage cars employ sleeves which slide over joints to lock them. It might be that in the '30s the roads were pretty vibratory in a minor manner; today's smooth tarmac punctuated by large, un-repaired potholes might have a different effect.
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Peter Scott

United Kingdom
1240 Posts

Posted - 01/09/2008 :  18:31:37  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by John Reid

Bob,

All my 12v motors have quietly ceased working but a work colleague gave me a brand new 6v motor which I fitted last year. I know it's not good practice, but used sensibly in short bursts on 12v it does the job at high speed, aided by Rainex! Still working OK. There was a forum item on "Converting 6v wiper to 12v" which I started in November 2005 which had plenty of comment - I have to say I have followed Steve Cooper's suggestion, but Lew Palmer who has experience of rebuilding these motors, cautions otherwise. Worth a read through.

We don't have a hood either, so all journeys are undertaken with full wet weather gear to hand. Character building!

John R



John

Rather than converting your 6v wiper motor to 12v, you can use an electronic unit which limits the current drawn by the 6v motor. It won't, of course, then operate at an improved higher speed.

I built one of these units, for my son, for his split screen VW transporter van and it has worked succesfully for a couple of years. It is a very simple unit. Details to be found here http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Lane/1970/wiper1.html I assume that the current drawn by the two different 6v motors will be similar.

Peter

Edited by - Peter Scott on 01/09/2008 18:32:24
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bahnisch

Australia
674 Posts

Posted - 02/09/2008 :  00:46:09  Show Profile
On the topic of wiper motors, my M-type has the very early Lucas "Pull and Spin" type which appears to have been an original "extra" but no longer works (apparently they were never very effective!). Has anyone tried to resurrect one of these? Would it be possible to put modern internals into one?
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John Reid

United Kingdom
704 Posts

Posted - 02/09/2008 :  09:52:27  Show Profile
Peter,

Many thanks for the link to the VW site for 6v/12v conversion.
Looks a suitable way to go.

John R
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Bob Stringfield

United Kingdom
854 Posts

Posted - 20/09/2008 :  17:44:05  Show Profile
Bruce Sutherland was kind enough to send me a picture of his hood irons complete with holes presumably for locking pins.

Examining mine on PA 0603, post - holiday in France, lo and behold, hidden by paint, are the self-same holes in the same position.

Could these be 'official' or are they a 'mod' of the period?
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