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 Bevel pinion gears again
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phil

United Kingdom
149 Posts

Posted - 24/09/2008 :  11:06:05  Show Profile
Hi all, hopefully my last mountain to climb...
I have read the previous posts about the oil leaks at dynamo/oil galley. I am still non the wiser. Is there anyone who can be bothered to read the following and help give me a line of action.
I have had to have my dynamo rebuilt, car is finished other than that!!! One of the reasons given for the failure of the unit was 6v innards and filled with oil courtesy of the oil galley. (which incidentally is a 'J' type housing)
I did have home made shims on, on examining the oil galley housing, (the fork side) it looks like it has been modded to take another oil seal. (This next bits hard to explain).
On the underside, where the top fork goes, the galley has been modded to such an extent, it left a gaping hole that we had to fill with milliput.
So,it has been suggested to me that instead of shimming, remove the amount from the thrust washer under the beveled gear.
Is there a definitive answer to stopping my dynamo filling up with oil again? (costs a lot but Woods in Huddersfield did a stunning job)
Also (long winded I know), I notice there are long and short forks, can anyone enlighten me as to which is a short fork, and which is a long fork. (What length?)
Can i use the j type galley on a p type?
Finally, if the meshing is so critical, how do you check the bottom cogs, I have no shims on the bottom of the dynamo.
Sorry to drag up age old questions, I'm desperate to get MOT'd ASAP
As I am no engineer, if anyone can advise, can you please keep it in laymans terms.
Thanks in advance, nearly finished Phil.



DickMorbey

United Kingdom
3677 Posts

Posted - 24/09/2008 :  12:55:34  Show Profile
Phil

I'll attempt to help on a couple of the points in your query - but will leave others to respond to the others.

Meshing of the bottom gear. This has already been answered elsewhere in this forum. Just search backlash for further info.

However, in case it helps, I have always understood that there should be just the merest amount of backlash between these gears - just sufficiently perceptible so that you can hear a faint click when the dynamo shaft is rotated to and fro.

As regards oil tightness at the top end, it's critically important that the dynamo be precisely aligned with the camshaft drive pinion in all planes. That may require the front main bearing housing to be rotated minutely and the locating dowels re-pegged. Similarly, the housing may need to be moved in a fore or aft direction relative to the front face of the engine block so that the centre of the dynamo shaft is precisely aligned to the centre of the pinion shaft. A alignment jig will help - I don't have one, but maybe a member nearabouts to you could offer to lend you one?

Regarding oiltightness,a dodge that Mike Dowley told me, and which has worked on my P engine, is to cut a 1/8 inch cork ring of the same diameters as the steel oil seal housing that fits into the drain gallery. Position this ring under the bottom of the oil seal housing so that it is nipped up against the bottom of the gallery when the gallery is tightened to the underside of the cylinder head. Thereby any oil that finds its way into the bottom of the gallery is prevented from travelling down the pinion shaft and just drains away back into the sump.

Hope this helps. Maybe others can answer your other points re the fork etc?

Good luck!

Regards
Dick Morbey, PA/B 0743

Edited by - DickMorbey on 24/09/2008 12:56:50
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kimber

United Kingdom
1529 Posts

Posted - 24/09/2008 :  15:28:50  Show Profile
It is possible to fit a 'secondary' oil seal in the bottom of the housing which necessitates removal of the oil return thread on the fork.

The purpose of shims between the oil drain housing and the underside of the cylinder head is to alter the position of the pinion gear relative to the camshaft gear. There should be no need to modify the thrust washer. (From what you say, it sounds as though the pinion is too high relative to the camshaft. Unless it is a 'mile' out, I can't see the problem with shimming)

The MDJ and P-type oil drain housings are not the same in a number of respects and are not directly interchangeable. Whether you could make alterations to accommodate an MDJ one on a P engine I'm afraid I don't know. It would certainly mean non-standard oil pipes, if nothing else.

If the drain housing is not correct/serviceable, new P type ones can be obtained via James Gunn who makes them 01279 876773.

Re. meshing of the dynamo gears, keep removing shims until you have the minimum of backlash. Ideally, you should check for evidence of backlash with somebody pressing the clutch pedal and at various points throughout an entire revolution of the crankshaft.

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phil

United Kingdom
149 Posts

Posted - 25/09/2008 :  18:11:35  Show Profile
Thank you. Car is running, sounds good.
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