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 Clutch adjustment
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Keith Wallace

United Kingdom
367 Posts

Posted - 27/11/2008 :  13:33:11  Show Profile
The clutch on my very standard PB has 4 x leavers ......... is this a good thing? (Booker lists this type of clutch for a pre-engaged gear box?)

I can only adjust the clutch by making the gap between the thrust bearing and pressure plate acting on the leavers to about 3/16” all the way round, because the pressure plate is sprung loaded against the arms, but is this right? (I don’t find Booker is not very clear on this)

Your thoughts would be most welcome.
Keith

kimber

United Kingdom
1529 Posts

Posted - 27/11/2008 :  15:52:01  Show Profile
All sounds normal.
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ags

United Kingdom
275 Posts

Posted - 27/11/2008 :  15:52:29  Show Profile
Hi Keith,

The clutch as you describe it is the original design for P types, with 4 levers pivoting on lock-nutted adjustment set screws. This is a Roper and Wreaks design which is very different to all the other MMM cars except the manual box KNs and Ns.The differences are not only the number of levers, for example compare the sinuous shape of your release levers (shown in the cut away drawing on p136) with the straight ones in the cut away on p138. After a quick scan of Blower I think that the junction between pages 139 and 140 falls in an unfortunate place in the text when taken with the very short paragraph headings, and that this is what has confused you, but also see later.

Yes, the operating disc pad is loaded by the clutch springs towards, but not into contact with, the clutch release bearing. Also yes, the correct clearance is 3/16 between pad and bearing. It is important to follow the procedure that the P manual, but not apparently Blower, describes to do the adjustment. "It is absolutely essential that the four clutch withdrawal lever adjusting screws are adjusted so that the clearance between the operating disc and thrust race opposite each lever is exactly equal". (Just spotted the relevant bit in Blower, top of p139, but he could have put the last sentence of the top paragraph onto the second paragraph for more clarity).

I have seen clutch levers that were apparently broken by a heavy foot upon badly adjusted levers. The best way to do this is as per the manuals and file up a little 3/16 gauge to fit between the pad and the race, and do not forget a small hole for the piece of string to stop it falling down into the bell housing. Loop the other end of the string over the slow running and choke rods and then it can be tied to the spanner needed for the lock nuts for the same reason. (It will be an engine or gearbox out job to rescue them). Do each lever in turn and when you think you are finished start the engine and allow it to tick over while watching the edge of the disc through the inspection opening. There should be no fore and aft wobble visible nor should any kick back be felt either by foot or finger pressure on the clutch pedal.

This can be quite a game until you are used to it, but it only needs doing about once a season, unless you have to change the clutch plate etc, and does make a world of difference to the sweetness with which you can change gear, let alone protecting the crankshaft white metal thrust faces.

So basically I think that you have been doing it all right, as long as there was no pedal kick back when you finished.

More technical ramblings from

Andrew Smith MMM571
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George Eagle

United Kingdom
3238 Posts

Posted - 27/11/2008 :  20:18:52  Show Profile
When you mention Booker do you mean The MG Manual by W E Blower?

As AGS states the 4 lever design is original for both P and N Types. I adjust mine by using an L shaped "feeler guage" cut out of 3/16" plate. It has a hole drilled in the outer end through which I have tied some wire in case it accidentally slips into the bell housing!!

George
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Keith Wallace

United Kingdom
367 Posts

Posted - 28/11/2008 :  07:14:52  Show Profile
Thanks you chaps!

Yes I did mean Blower when I wrote Brooker, sorry.

I had looked originally at Sports & Vintage spares manual to see the exploded view of the 3 x leaver clutch but now I see the P Instruction Manual shows the 4 x leaver.

I will make a 3/16 gage as recommended and let you know how I get on.

Thanks to you all again
Keith
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Keith Wallace

United Kingdom
367 Posts

Posted - 04/12/2008 :  14:46:44  Show Profile
Tried for ages to adjust the clutch leavers with a 3/16" spacer, but always ended with a wobble.

Then in dispair, I fitted the 3/16" spacer behind the thrust bearing carrier and then adjusted the thrust plate onto the bearing, result - spot on the first time!

Thanks to you all again
Keith
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