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K0390
Germany
11 Posts |
Posted - 07/09/2011 : 20:52:50
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Thanks for the help and the beautifull pictures! I own a PB basket and there many questions in my mind concerning the details of assembly. There are some big differences to my TC although everything looks basically quite familiar to me. Now, would you have a picture of the inside - the side that shows to the engine - of the radiator where the transverse headlamp and wing supporting bar is fixed against the radiator sides. I have the feeling that some parts of the radiator housing are missing. In TCs there are 2 triangles soldered to the housing that take the bar which supports the wings. Regards Peter |
Edited by - K0390 on 16/09/2011 07:11:09 |
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Oz34
United Kingdom
2570 Posts |
Posted - 08/09/2011 : 11:53:15
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Hi Peter,
I'm surprised no one has answered your query yet.
It's fairly simple really. The two studs on the bottom of the rad fit into the holes marked by yellow "blobs" in the picture below:
![](http://www.triple-mregister.org/forums/uploads/Oz34/201198114226_bracket.JPG)
Across the back of the rad you will find 4(no) 1/4 BSF studs. A "C" shaped piece of 1/4 inch steel fits over these with its ends wrapped around the rad to take the headlamp lugs. A roughly triangular bracket then bolts over this & picks up on two studs on the front of the cylinder head, again the yellow blobs show these:
![](http://www.triple-mregister.org/forums/uploads/Oz34/20119811478_Cylinder head.JPG)
I hope this helps.
Nick, this is a brilliant developement! Well done again & many thanks for your efforts.
Dave |
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DickMorbey
United Kingdom
3682 Posts |
Posted - 08/09/2011 : 14:27:47
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Might I raise a supplementary question?
Should the radiator mounting rubbers sit between the bottom of the rad and the support bracket, OR under the support bracket, then secured with washers and a nut?
Best wishes Dick |
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Robin Hamblett
United Kingdom
534 Posts |
Posted - 08/09/2011 : 15:25:03
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Hi Dick
The rubbers sit between the bottom of the rad and the bracket. The studs on the rad should be just long enough to fit a flat washer, split washer and a nut. I also fitted a small piece of gash aluminium in the elongated hole to stop the rad travelling along the hole.
Regards
Robin |
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DickMorbey
United Kingdom
3682 Posts |
Posted - 08/09/2011 : 20:00:23
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Thanks Robin,
I thought so, and I am sure you are correct.
I read somewhere recently (can't recall where) that the rubber spacers sit below the bracket - but I cannot see the point of that!
Best wishes Dick |
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LewPalmer
USA
3251 Posts |
Posted - 08/09/2011 : 22:25:36
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Dick (and Dan Fest please note), the quote came from DanF in a post on 20/8/2011, and I quote: "However, it has been pointed out to me that the rubber bushings do not go at the bottom of the radiator but rather between the nut and engine support. I have this incorrect and correcting it should make my hose offset considerably less."
Now who IS correct?
Lew Palmer Registrar, NAMMMR |
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ags
United Kingdom
275 Posts |
Posted - 09/09/2011 : 00:59:20
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Hi Lew, Robin, Dick, Dan and all,
For what it is worth, my rubber washers are fitted between the bottom of the radiator and the top of the support bracket and not between the washer and the bottom of the support bracket. They were like this when I got the car, but they might easily have been moved in the twenty nine years before that after it had left the Factory. I believe that their purpose is to decrease any possible stress on the radiator and that this position does this most effectively. These stresses come from the conflict between the distortion of the relatively flexible front end of the chassis (transmitted by the wings, wing stays, headlamp brackets and the top radiator support to the radiator framing) and the position of the engine which is not so mobile, being held by the gear box support cross shaft at about the middle of the chassis.
In response to Dan F. I have used this arrangement of the washers both with and without a water pump. The alignment of the bottom hose into the water pump can be improved by cutting the length of the hose to suit, using a little liquid soap as a lubricant when fitting the hose and plenty of brute force to get the ends of the hose to slide properly along the radiator and pump spigots. This may be most easily done if the radiator is fitted to the engine (which has had the water pump fitted but the hoses left loose) when the engine etc. is in the chassis rather than trying to fiddle the hose between the spigots when they are both fixed. Just do not forget the hose clips if you tackle it this way!
I do not know of any works photographs which show this area in detail, so what I have said is backed only by my experience. Anyone else's opinion might be different, but this is my view.
More technical ramblings from
Andrew Smith MMM571 |
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Gerhard Maier
Germany
881 Posts |
Posted - 09/09/2011 : 11:12:59
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Andrew, another improvement to fiddle the bottom hose into the water pump is possible, when for fixing the water pump to the front housing, no studs are used as original, but instead two bolts. So before inserting the bolts, the water pump can be turned slightly, and the fitting of the hose is easier. This alternation also helps a lot, when after years, a water pump has to be removed, and slight turning back and forward will loosen the hardened sealing compound. Gerhard
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K0390
Germany
11 Posts |
Posted - 15/09/2011 : 10:04:31
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Thanks for the help and the beautifull pictures! I own a PB basket and there many questions in my mind. There are some big differences to my TC although everything looks basically quite familiar to me. Now would you have a picture of the inside of the radiator where the transverse headlamp and wing supporting bar is fixed against the radiator sides. Regards Peter
quote: Originally posted by Oz34
Hi Peter,
I'm surprised no one has answered your query yet.
It's fairly simple really. The two studs on the bottom of the rad fit into the holes marked by yellow "blobs" in the picture below:
![](http://www.triple-mregister.org/forums/uploads/Oz34/201198114226_bracket.JPG)
Across the back of the rad you will find 4(no) 1/4 BSF studs. A "C" shaped piece of 1/4 inch steel fits over these with its ends wrapped around the rad to take the headlamp lugs. A roughly triangular bracket then bolts over this & picks up on two studs on the front of the cylinder head, again the yellow blobs show these:
![](http://www.triple-mregister.org/forums/uploads/Oz34/20119811478_Cylinder head.JPG)
I hope this helps.
Nick, this is a brilliant developement! Well done again & many thanks for your efforts.
Dave
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George Eagle
United Kingdom
3244 Posts |
Posted - 15/09/2011 : 11:19:58
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Hi Peter
I have always fitted the rubber between the radiator and the support bracket - as Andrew has pointed out these rubbers will protect the bottom of the radiator from the stresses caused by the very flexible chassis.
I suppose if the two bolts at the bottom of the rad were long enough it would be possible to have rubbers both above and below the bracket! Like Robin I use a suitable flat washer.
George
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