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 Pipe Bending
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beautymate

United Kingdom
365 Posts

Posted - 26/02/2012 :  18:03:46  Show Profile
Can any one help there seems to be a real lack of people who can bend exhaust size pipe in one section and not faceted i.e side exit exhaust tail section. Ideally in the midlands area?
Thanks

Chris

George Eagle

United Kingdom
3237 Posts

Posted - 26/02/2012 :  19:28:46  Show Profile
Hi Chris

I have used Exhausts by Design who are based in Tingewick near Buckingham. They made a superb job of the stainless steel exhaust down pipe/silencer/tail pipe on the L2.

Regards

George
L2023 and NA0960
Nr Buckingham
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David Allison

United Kingdom
665 Posts

Posted - 27/02/2012 :  11:18:31  Show Profile
It depends on the pipe diameter and wall thickness - but pipe bending is actually quite easy and the results are rewarding.

You will need a heat source - propane is best at the moment (acetalyne is in short supply).
Use a broad spread flame around the pipe in the area to be shaped (we blacksmiths dont call it a bend) and using the flame on the long side of the shape stretch the metal gradually.
You will need large amounts of strength and patience - plus quite a bit of practice.

Alternatively there are plenty of specialist manufacturers - I personally would go to a motorcyle specialist because of their experience with variable diameter pipe and very thin wall thickness pipe.

I personally prefer mild steel pipe on a MMM car but professionally I covert George Eagles stainless manifolds :)

Regards David
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Bob Stringfield

United Kingdom
854 Posts

Posted - 27/02/2012 :  14:01:52  Show Profile
I used to run an excellent and well-liked, pre-GM, SAAB 900. The SAAB garage refused to follow my idea of a stainless exhaust system, claiming that S/S always resonated unpleasantly (as does the S/S silencer on the PA).

Historically, stainless was in utensil and bicycle use in the mid- '30s, however, so is not quite anachronistic.
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David Allison

United Kingdom
665 Posts

Posted - 27/02/2012 :  16:23:16  Show Profile
Stainless steel is an awful metal to use - it is unpleasant to work with and less durable than mild steel or copper.

Copper looks very nice but like stainless steel is inclined to resonate.
The metal is very easy to work with but inclined to require lots of aftercare - the metal is very soft and damages easily.

Stainless steel requires specialist equipment to work it - the material has very little shear strength and is prone to cracking when heated.
However if you use a thicker wall material than standard accepted exhaust tubing and tig weld the assemblies then the material is ideal for exhausts if the engine is low revving.
Tube bends need to be done either hot rolled or alternatively cut and stitch - the assembly then needs to be polished afterwards.
The main advantage is the aesthetics - a polished stainless steel header set takes on a lovely bright blue colour shading down to a copper brown which looks superb.
However on a very hot running engine (or a high revving one) stainless steel is not really the right material to use - it cracks very easily and is prone to vibration fractures.

Mild steel can be used much more easily - compliant and ductile the material has only one negative aspect and that is corrosion.
When heated and rapidly cooled the material is prone to attract moisture (we call it sweating) and in my proffesion we even quench steel in oil to prevent corrosion when possible.
I always cover exhaust headers with ZEBO grate polish using a toothbrush - this limits the corrosion (well covers it up) and gives a nice finish.
Almost every paint finish I have tried burns off - some last longer than others (Kermachrome is one of the better ones) some actually last less time than Zebo Grate Polish!

Stainless steels were historically not used on cars due to expense and suitability pre-war.

Metal is a rewarding material to work with but it takes experience to fully gain the rewards

Regards David
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Oz34

United Kingdom
2524 Posts

Posted - 27/02/2012 :  20:03:49  Show Profile
I wonder David if you are being too polite when mentioning your reason for a motorcycle preference? It was once suggested to me that the best chromers were those who did a lot of motorcycle work, but the reasoning was a little different. Seemingly if the work deteriorated rapidly, the customer was likely to return....... with all his mates!

Dave
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Bob Stringfield

United Kingdom
854 Posts

Posted - 27/02/2012 :  20:09:46  Show Profile
Us bikers are indeed reputed not to put up with rubbish.

You may think the above, but I could not possibly confirm it......
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David Allison

United Kingdom
665 Posts

Posted - 28/02/2012 :  10:10:05  Show Profile
I can only say by reputation that all my motorcylcling freinds are very nice people - but then again I have yet to upset one and make pains NOT to do so :)

Regards David
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njnh

United Kingdom
404 Posts

Posted - 28/02/2012 :  20:15:47  Show Profile
Chris. I can recommend JP Exhausts in Macclesfield - probably 90 minutes up the M6 for you. I have seen a lot of their work over the years and it is uniformly excellent - most recently exhaust manifolding for an AC Ace owned by a friend. JP have drawings for a large number of "old" manifolds and exhaust systems.

Nigel
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Nick Dean

United Kingdom
444 Posts

Posted - 28/02/2012 :  20:46:31  Show Profile
Chris, I have used, bent , brazed stainless for years on boats & cars, and currently have 2 st/steel silencers linked together and 1 3/4inch pipe from manifold to tail. It sounds and works fine, hopefully it will see me out on my blown PA.
Good luck, Nick.

N A Dean
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