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Paolo Bordini
Italy
44 Posts |
 Posted - 19/03/2012 : 15:47:30
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To all the MGM Gurus! this is the cut out box found on the 1930 MGM being rebuilt here in Umbria Italy. Is it the original one? Apparently the electricity arrives to the box but does not proceed to charge the battery. We would appreciate to see the wiring diagram for the MGM. We already have the one published in the Workshop and Tuning Manual by W.E.Blower. There is around a different and more detailed one?
With best regards
Paolo
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Keith Durston
United Kingdom
711 Posts |
Posted - 19/03/2012 : 17:11:21
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Hi Paolo,
I don't know if I can claim to be an "MGM Guru" but the cut outs I have for my M types are similar but not the same as yours. Mine are Rotax units and have 6v and 12a stamped on the top cover. The coil is sat parallel to the bulkhead unlike yours but the unit does have three terminals the same as yours. Perhaps our esteemed Webmaster Nick Feakes could comment as he seems to be the world's authority on MMM electrics.
Keith |
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Paolo Bordini
Italy
44 Posts |
Posted - 19/03/2012 : 17:50:06
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Thank you Keith
pleased to know a bit more of the various electric hardware available on the MGM. Next item will be the engine noise, after sorting out the electrics, keep in touch.
Paolo |
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bahnisch
Australia
674 Posts |
Posted - 19/03/2012 : 22:50:18
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| Paolo, The fuse-box on my M2737 is similar to yours but began to smoke on a run some years ago. My "sparky" put a diode in it and I have driven the car thousands of miles since. The amp-meter shows it is charging but I have automatic chargers on all of my cars when they are at home. |
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bahnisch
Australia
674 Posts |
Posted - 19/03/2012 : 22:51:40
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| Sorry, I said "fuse-box" but meant cut-out. |
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sam christie
United Kingdom
3101 Posts |
Posted - 20/03/2012 : 00:41:34
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Paolo, if your instrument panel is Rotax I believe your cut-out should also be Rotax.The Lucas CF1 type was fitted to early open M-types with Lucas instrument panels and also Coupe models.The CF1 type is commonly seen because it was used on many British cars especially the Morris Minor and it readily replaced the Rotax type.
I believe cut-outs are expensive, expensive to restore, unreliable and a fire hazard.Following Nick Feakes' advice, my car has a diode,concealed behind the dash. The diode cost very little and is easy to fit (following Nick's instructions)and seems very reliable.If my diode ever gives trouble it will be cheap and simple to replace.The Rotax cut-out on my own car is 'correct' but only there for decoration.
Sam |
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poulsendk
Denmark
270 Posts |
Posted - 20/03/2012 : 07:28:49
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Hi.
I am going to make the cut-out on my M type. I am interested to hear more about the diode. Have tried to search on it, but dit not find something.
Jørgen Poulsen
MGM 1930 MGM 1931 |
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Robin Macmillan
United Kingdom
415 Posts |
Posted - 20/03/2012 : 08:16:20
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Search for DV3 and also look in document downloads. I have one and am pleased though I initially burnt out 2. The moral is that it needs to be wired independently without any connections to the existing cut out /voltage regulator.
robin
PB 0527 |
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tholden
United Kingdom
1638 Posts |
Posted - 20/03/2012 : 09:06:03
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You can easily and cheaply fit a diode to replace the cut out. I am sure the instructions are on this site if you search archives or look in Nick Feakes booklet they are in there.The diode can be used with teh original 3 brush dynamo.
The DV3 is a good idea since it should regulate the charge as well. However it is expensive compared with a RB106 or NCB 118 style regulator. Like Robin I had trouble with a DV3. I installed one exactly as per pre agreed diagram, it burnt out and they said hard luck!
You can istall a standard regulator behind the dash out of sight, the wiring is easy and they are cheaper.If using a DV3 or Regulator you will have to convert your dynamo to 2 brush and again the instructions for this are in Nicks book.
TH |
Edited by - tholden on 20/03/2012 09:13:27 |
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