| Author |
 Topic  |
|
Jonathan Sage
United Kingdom
10 Posts |
 Posted - 03/09/2012 : 22:27:22
|
Can anyone recommend an engineering shop in south UK to replace crown wheel and pinion from P type? Slough Grinding services which is local to me may be a good bet. I broke mine earlier this week, engine having been rebuilt by Baynton Jones going too well.
Also in spite of very little experience, I managed to extract the diff by removing the diff back plate, clamps retaining crown wheel and then crown wheel itself, then the pinion assembly having disconnected the prop shaft. Assume that it makes sense to take the removed parts, have crown wheel and pinion replaced and properly set up, and I can probably reinsert it myself.. can it be reinserted in one piece?
Are stronger CP's available?
Also I have had problems with oil leaking one side into the brake drum - what method is used to prevent that? Thanks and apologies for so many questions
Jonathan Sage
Henley on Thames /
Also Wool / Dorset |
|
|
Richard Hardy
United Kingdom
2159 Posts |
Posted - 03/09/2012 : 23:18:29
|
Jonathan
I would very much recommend Ken Robinson. He is building a J2 Diff up at this moment for another customer and comes highly recommended for MMM engine work, diffs, Volumex work and steering boxes.
Regards
Rich
Vintage MG Parts |
 |
|
|
Blue M
United Kingdom
1472 Posts |
Posted - 04/09/2012 : 06:29:59
|
Jonathon,
It sounds as though you have dismantled the diff while leaving the casing in place. The rear plate doesn't need to be removed. The whole unit must come out - from the front. It must also be rebuilt as a unit. From what you have managed to do so far, it's likely you could rebuild the diff yourself. It isn't complicated.
For the oil leak, S+V have plastic bushes with a return 'thread' which work well. A fully sealed bearing is a good idea too.
Ian |
|
|
|
PeterL
United Kingdom
1722 Posts |
Posted - 04/09/2012 : 06:46:40
|
I do my own extraction and replacement, Tim Miller (KIngsbury Episcopi Somerset) rebuilds them.
I get my advice from G Howell's "Practical Guide to the Restoration of the J Type" and Malcolm Green's "MG Road Cars Vol 1"
Technical advice is also available on this site under downloads and the discussion forums, where a new means of measuring pinion shimming I think it was, has just been discussed.
I have just done all this, buying all the bits from S&V: double row bearings and new half shafts, hubs and seals, felt seal, lock nuts and tab washers.
My observations were how rough the interior of the axle tube is, good for gripping the scroll oil seal though and it went in with a push (sometimes reaming is required). The rear bearing on the side the half shaft broke was worn and wobbly so might have been the cause of the break, and to check your wobbliness you have to take out the half shaft otherwise it will seem less wobbly than it is! Roger Furneaux provides tapered rather than splined halfshafts and hubs and next time I shall investigate these.
Hope this helps.
Cheers
P |
|
|
|
spitfire
United Kingdom
371 Posts |
Posted - 04/09/2012 : 08:58:34
|
Hi Jonathan,
I would heartily recommend Ken Robinson. He has just put a different ratio CW&P in one of my diff housings. |
|
|
|
Jonathan Sage
United Kingdom
10 Posts |
Posted - 04/09/2012 : 12:31:16
|
| thanks for all the advice, what's the best way to get hold of Ken? It is Slough Grinding Services, isn't it? |
|
|
|
Jonathan Sage
United Kingdom
10 Posts |
Posted - 04/09/2012 : 12:32:18
|
quote:
Originally posted by IAN JUDD
Jonathon,
It sounds as though you have dismantled the diff while leaving the casing in place. The rear plate doesn't need to be removed. The whole unit must come out - from the front. It must also be rebuilt as a unit. From what you have managed to do so far, it's likely you could rebuild the diff yourself. It isn't complicated.
For the oil leak, S+V have plastic bushes with a return 'thread' which work well. A fully sealed bearing is a good idea too.
Ian
|
|
|
|
Jonathan Sage
United Kingdom
10 Posts |
Posted - 04/09/2012 : 12:36:26
|
Thanks for your vote of confidence Ian :-)
I take it the bearings that need to be fully sealed are the wheel bearings in the rear hubs - the S&V plastic bushes are located on the half shafts? Sounds as if these would do the trick since the bearings are fairly new and don't yet need replacing.. |
|
|
|
Oz34
United Kingdom
2538 Posts |
Posted - 04/09/2012 : 14:39:56
|
The other option Jonathan for hub sealing is a conversion by Roger Furneaux, mentioned re tapered half-shafts. This uses special hub nuts incorporating a lip seal, together with a stainless sleeve bonded (i.e. glued!) over the outer end of the shaft for the seal to run on.
I would also heartily endorse Ken Robinson.
Best of luck,
Dave |
|
|
|
Jonathan Sage
United Kingdom
10 Posts |
Posted - 04/09/2012 : 16:15:58
|
Thanks Dave, sounds like a very good solution, I will bear this in mind when I replace the half shafts - ones in there now are new..
Jonathan |
|
|
|
Oz34
United Kingdom
2538 Posts |
Posted - 04/09/2012 : 19:33:12
|
Possibly I've confused Jonathan by mentioning the tapered shafts; the lip seals can be used on standard shafts. The only possible problem is that they were originally designed for T Types which have more space in the hub. With Triple M cars it's sometimes necessary to machine out the hub interior by a small amount.
Dave |
|
|
|
Jonathan Sage
United Kingdom
10 Posts |
Posted - 04/09/2012 : 20:14:47
|
| Right, thanks for the clarification Dave /. |
|
|
|
Nick Feakes
USA
3372 Posts |
Posted - 05/09/2012 : 13:30:50
|
I tried several different fixes for the oil leaking into the brake drum and down the outside of the wire wheel syndrome without success. Roger's modification has fixed it perfectly. I didn't have to modify my hubs either.
Nick |
|
|
|
Dow
United Kingdom
490 Posts |
|
|
philcoombs
United Kingdom
77 Posts |
Posted - 05/09/2012 : 15:37:39
|
Jonathan
Roger Furneaux will also rebuild your diff for you - did mine two years ago and it is still in one piece despite regular abuse.
Philip |
|
|
|
Hornet
United Kingdom
382 Posts |
Posted - 05/09/2012 : 21:46:55
|
| if the oil is leaking along the splines of the halfshaft and hub then press them off and clean the surfaces and refit using plenty of loctite . |
|
|
|
Topic |
|
Forum Locked
Topic Locked
