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 Garage heating
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Oz34

United Kingdom
2538 Posts

Posted - 09/11/2013 :  16:10:26  Show Profile
I had hoped to be finished with my painting before we lost the warmth but....

I've ruled out all except electrity on fumes/moisture/safety grounds & am now left with fan or ceramic or similar radiant heaters. Having no experience with which to compare them, I wonder if anyone can help please?

To bloom or not to bloom!

Dave

leafrancis14

United Kingdom
323 Posts

Posted - 09/11/2013 :  16:27:11  Show Profile
Last winter I rigged up a couple of halogen lamps (of the security variety). Cheap to buy and effective.

Barny Creaser

(Wellingborough)
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Oz34

United Kingdom
2538 Posts

Posted - 09/11/2013 :  17:03:17  Show Profile
Thanks for that Barny. I have a double halogen lamp & I must confess at 400w per unit, the heat output is phenomenal, but I was thinking rather more than that to get a suitable temperature for spraying.
And always remembering that for safety reasons, before you start work, the heating must go off; it needs to be quite warm before you start to maintain a suitable figure for a whole gun's worth.

cheers,

Dave

Edited by - Oz34 on 09/11/2013 17:03:39
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LewPalmer

USA
3242 Posts

Posted - 09/11/2013 :  18:36:35  Show Profile
I have heaters in each of three areas of my garage (main garage, studio, and workshop). They are natural gas units (in the US they are the Hot Dawg brand). You should be able to buy closed combustion units in which the flames are completely closed off from the heated air output. This provides a safe environment where fumes, chemicals, and dust are never in direct contact with the flames.
You may also want to look at radiant heat electric units. These are quite good and throw a lot of heat. They heat the contents of the room, not the air directly.
My choice was for natural gas simply for the cost of operation.

Lew Palmer
PA1169, PB0560
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Oz34

United Kingdom
2538 Posts

Posted - 09/11/2013 :  23:26:05  Show Profile
Interesting Lew. So where does the exhaust, complete with its moisture etc as well as fumes go? I must confess to being more interested in your view on radiant heaters, they being one of what I think are my best options.

Thanks.

Dave
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MG Maverick

United Kingdom
1045 Posts

Posted - 10/11/2013 :  00:56:57  Show Profile
My garage / workshop is attached to the side of my house, I added a central heating radiator to the garage, very conveniently a radiator is on this wall in the house. Ran two pipes through the wall to the garage radiator and we heat the garage as part of the house system ( thermostatic valve fitted ), very warm & safe.

Chris ( J2353 )

Brighton, East Sussex & Paphos, Cyprus.
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LewPalmer

USA
3242 Posts

Posted - 10/11/2013 :  01:08:54  Show Profile
The closed combustion gas heater uses a pair of concentric chimneys. The inner one for intake air, the outer for exhaust air. The air being heated uses a heat transfer chamber to keep the heated air isolated from the flame.

Regarding the infrared radiant heater, I would suggest you refer to one of the many web sites describing their operation. For example: http://www.infraredradiant.com/infrared/index.php/electric-heaters.html

Lew Palmer
PA1169, PB0560
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gordclark

Canada
170 Posts

Posted - 10/11/2013 :  03:58:25  Show Profile

I’d like to throw in my 2 cents worth as I have quite a bit of experience with heating.

Several years ago, after receiving progressively greater electricity bills, I decided to do something about it.

After considerable research, I ended up buying an airtight, computerized, battery-operated pellet stove and I’ve never looked back. In the first year, I cut my heating bills by 50%. These stoves are so efficient, no smoke is produced, hence no chimney. There is however a small, 2" pipe to vent C0² and water vapour to the outside. Unlike logwood which produces large amounts of cinder, I have to empty my ash bin, only every two week. There is a downside however. These highly tuned stoves do need manual intervention, and I have to shut mine down every two weeks and clean it (20 minutes); and they can be expensive to buy. Expect to pay in the £1,500 to 2,000 range, plus another £250 for installation.

Most councils here allow their use. It’s the logwood stoves that are banned in the cities, but not here in the (farm) country, where I live.

In Canada and the Northern US, where these stoves are popular, wood pellets are plentiful and cheap. I use a 40 pound bag each day and the cost is $4.50 or abt. £2.60/day. Mine will also burn corn, walnut shells, peanut shells, and wheat husks. If there’s a power interruption, the standard 12 volt car battery will keep it going for about 10 hours, after which I have to fire up my generator.

Something you might want to investigate.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
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Oz34

United Kingdom
2538 Posts

Posted - 10/11/2013 :  23:47:06  Show Profile
Many thanks Lew for that link. After reading it I think that is what I'll go for, although a UK firm, of which there seem to be a number of options.

Cheers,

Dave
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rossk

United Kingdom
495 Posts

Posted - 11/11/2013 :  20:20:30  Show Profile
And thats how they dry the paint on modern cars now days. http://www.trisk.co.uk/

Ross Keeling
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Oz34

United Kingdom
2538 Posts

Posted - 27/11/2013 :  22:02:41  Show Profile
Just to wrap this up (no pun intended!), after discussions with my son I eventually opted for a tent of bubble wrap (large bubbles) & was able, with a 3Kw fan heater, to achieve +20 in a +5 ambient. I thus completed my painting with no blooming.

Rather than bore everyone, if anyone would like details, please contact me direct.

Cheers,

Dave

Edited by - Oz34 on 27/11/2013 22:03:16
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