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talbot
United Kingdom
718 Posts |
 Posted - 05/07/2006 : 20:27:01
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I have just cast some new cam shaft bushes (I melted down the old big ends!)and have spent two nights scraping them in. The shaft now turns beautifully with no play at all. I can see how the thrust, towards the rear, is taken by the front cam stand but what stops the shaft moving forwards and interfering with the meshing? Does the spiral gear simply push the shaft backwards?
I also have a solid bronze bush for the vertical drive rather than a Hyatt. I was speaking to someone at the MG Spares Day at Stonleigh and he said this is a very good modification. I note from a previous message, however, that Richard Hardy has simply used three ball races stacked on top of each other and found this works extremely well. Should I convert or stick with the bronze bush?
Cheers to all
Jan T |
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Blue M
United Kingdom
1472 Posts |
Posted - 07/07/2006 : 06:03:30
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I use two ballraces with a spacer between, fitted directly into the head,i.e. no sleeve. This has been working fine for 30,000 miles or so. One advantage is that the bottom race can have its seal left in the bottom which keeps the oil in the head. I know the seals are really meant to keep dust etc out of the races rather than oil getting out , but it does help. Plus the whole settup costs about ú16.
Ian |
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Richard Hardy
United Kingdom
2159 Posts |
Posted - 09/07/2006 : 22:13:31
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As Ian correctly says, you must machine spacers up to stack the whole arrangement up otherwise without, it may be poshed downwards and push against the vertical drive coupling.Best to locktite the bearings into the head also.
I drive my car hard and with 12 Ibs of boost. This bearing arrangement has proved far superior to all of the alternatives.
Let me know if you need the bearing reference numcer and I will find it. |
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talbot
United Kingdom
718 Posts |
Posted - 22/11/2006 : 12:59:41
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I am about to cut the small grooves which distribute oil along the bearings. I only have one original one and the groove goes axially from edge to edge, passsing over the oil gallery hole. Is this correct? Won't oil leak from the edges and reduce the oil pressure? Perhaps I should stop the groove just short of the edge?
Cheers to all
Jan T |
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KevinH
United Kingdom
156 Posts |
Posted - 22/11/2006 : 18:57:16
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Richard,
I'd be interested in the bearing reference numbers, as I'll soon be getting on with the engine for my L
Regards, Kevin |
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F_Magna
United Kingdom
28 Posts |
Posted - 22/11/2006 : 23:08:27
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Qoute 'I am about to cut the small grooves which distribute oil along the bearings@
I thought present day practice was not to cut these grooves and rely on oil pressure and the wedge film of oil to do the job?
ch
F0392 Guildford UK |
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bahnisch
Australia
674 Posts |
Posted - 23/11/2006 : 10:34:46
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| I found that the groove in the front camshaft bearing in my F-type pumped out far too much oil to the bevel gears so I used a (bottom) cam bearing that had the groove blanked (eg a rear front shell) so now rely on oil pressure. The spiral bevel gears push the cam against the thrusts (originally "Belleville"? washers, which seemed to work OK but I recently substituted solid washers/spacers). My M-type has a plain bronze (?) bush in the camshaft drive which seems to work perfectly. In my F-type very comprehensive rebuild I used a bearing kit I bought from Mike Dowley including the seal, etc. The lip seal mod is relatively easy and I have done it on the M-type (which used to "drown" the dynamo!). In both cases absolutely no oil escapes! |
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