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Cymber
United Kingdom
966 Posts |
 Posted - 09/03/2008 : 21:53:57
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Blower gives this as 3/16". Is this measured at the rim as on modern cars or did they do it differently before I was born?
Maurice Blakey. |
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tholden
United Kingdom
1638 Posts |
Posted - 09/03/2008 : 23:40:32
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Maurice it is measured at the wheel rim. I quote from service information sheet no 64 issued september 1938. " It must be noted that if trammels are used for obtaining the adjustment it is essential that the same spot on the wheel RIM at the same height from the ground is used for both the rear and front measurement. This is to prevent wheel buckle from affecting the readings obtained. ......"
It also confirms that the toe in for models D,F J,L, PA, PB, NA,SA,TA,WA,and TB should be 3/16 inch. For the record the toe in for the M and VA is given as 1/8 inch and for the K1,K2 and KN as 1/4 inch.
Terry Holden |
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Cymber
United Kingdom
966 Posts |
Posted - 10/03/2008 : 10:52:30
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Many thanks Terry, I don't know what we would do without this forum. Certainly restorations would not be engineered to such a high standard.
Maurice. |
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ags
United Kingdom
275 Posts |
Posted - 10/03/2008 : 14:26:10
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Hi all,
My always shakey memory says that I heard that one of the Works pet methods to initially establish the toe-in of our cars was to set up two pairs of well-greased steel sheets on a flat floor in front of the wheels of a new car. The grease was used as a filling in a steel sandwich, so that if the sheets were reasonably flat the upper one would slip on the lower one. The sheets were large enough, say about five or six feet long, to allow the front wheels to do a complete revolution when passing over. The sheets were marked and the car wheeled over the sheets in a straight line with the steering neutral. Minor adjustments were made to the toe in until the sheets did not move sideways when the car had passed over them. Thus any sidethrust from the front wheels was reduced close to zero; the effect of wheel buckle was cancelled out as well; the test took account of loaded conditions and the final adjustment could be used as the setting.
I have used a variant of this method for years on many different cars and it does work very well, just like David's report of crack detecting methods. The gadget that I adopted was called the Trakrite, made by SPQR Engineering of Barnards Castle. It is identical in principle except that it is plastic; relies on small rollers rather than grease to reduce friction and has the refinement of a pointer and graduations to indicate balance.
And indeed the measurements at which I arrive are very close to Blower's 3/16" for the PB.
More technical reminiscences from
Andrew Smith MMM571 |
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