| Author |
 Topic  |
|
|
Cymber
United Kingdom
966 Posts |
 Posted - 17/04/2008 : 20:11:37
|
I have to make a non standard firewall for my PA, that is, unless someone can tell me where I can get one without holes or flywheel housing cutout.
I have some suitable galvanised steel sheet but do not know of a suitable adhesive for sticking it to plywood. Can anyone help please.
Maurice Blakey. |
|
|
Peter Green
United Kingdom
1682 Posts |
Posted - 18/04/2008 : 00:15:45
|
Maurice,
I am sure Steve Gilbert will sell you a blank one.
Peter. |
 |
|
|
David Allison
United Kingdom
665 Posts |
Posted - 18/04/2008 : 09:12:06
|
I am in agreement with Peter here - I dont thinks its worth the hassel.
But the best way to stick galvy sheet to plywood is to use an impact adhesive.
When we laminate galvy sheet on to ply at work, we take the ply from stock - rough it up on the surface to be glued.
Spread glue over the galvy sheet and the ply and allow to dry.
Place the galvy sheet over the ply and lower into place, then clamp down equally.
We use heavy weights uniformally distributed.
Then repeat for the second side.
Once again I agree with Peter - buy a blank firewall!
Regards David |
|
|
|
George Eagle
United Kingdom
3240 Posts |
Posted - 18/04/2008 : 10:11:33
|
Maurice
I also agree with Peter.
I purchased a firewall for the L2 from Steve Gilbert and it fitted perfectly - he has the necessary patterns.
George |
Edited by - George Eagle on 18/04/2008 10:13:27 |
|
|
|
tholden
United Kingdom
1638 Posts |
Posted - 18/04/2008 : 14:48:35
|
Maurice the J type firewall is easy to make in the manner that David says using an impact adhesive. I would however recomend the use of Marine quality ply. The plain J and L type firewall are in my experience best made to fit your car since the manufactured ones seldom seem to fit and usually require quite a lot of trimming to get the correct clearance between the firewheel and the bonnet for the type of rubber seal available today.
The PA/B firewall is however more difficult to fabricate due to the rubber seal support channel. It can however be done and I would recomend that you get the clearance adjusted to your bonnet before the final fitting of the seal support channel. In that way you get a perfect seal with just the right amount of tension on the rubber.
Terry Holden |
|
|
|
DickMorbey
United Kingdom
3677 Posts |
Posted - 18/04/2008 : 17:10:24
|
I replaced my motheaten PA firewall when restoring the car in the late 1990s. I recall that Steve Gilbert provided the replacement and it fitted to the car like a glove. However I did note that that the thickness of the ply was a tad greater than the original - not a big issue other than that the 1 inch sorbo seal that sits atop it was slightly loose in its aluminium frame. This resolved itself once the bonnet had squashed the rubber a bit.
Regards
Dick Morbey, PA/B 0743 |
Edited by - DickMorbey on 18/04/2008 17:11:07 |
|
|
|
tholden
United Kingdom
1638 Posts |
Posted - 18/04/2008 : 19:43:23
|
Steves patterns should be accurate since I think he has the old Wakefields patterns for the J and P which were taken from originals I lent to old Ernie back in the 70's. Most of the problems I have had in the past have been with the J type. I made my last one as an exact copy of an original and still had to cut it down to get the rubber seal to fit. I was talking to someone last week who has had the same problem. Maurice I have an original PB firewall if you need dimensions or would like me to make you a paper pattern.
Terry Holden |
|
|
|
Bob Clare
United Kingdom
278 Posts |
Posted - 21/04/2008 : 15:36:19
|
Just a quick caveat to all those advocates of new firewalls - in my view, as Regisrar and part historian, I regard the original firewall as one of the key components holding the history of the car. In the case of my NB (NA 0934) I would never have discovered that the original car had a footwell heating system if I had not kept the original, rotted, delaminated firewall, stripped the galvanised sheets from it and re-bonded it (as per David Allison's advice) onto new ply. It's on the car to this day and shows signs of all the slings and arrows of outrageous past owners as well as the evidence of missing original fittings.
So, please don't just chuck out your old firewall, even if you can't do what I did, keep it for future owners to ponder.
Bob Clare
Registrar |
|
|
|
Simon
United Kingdom
451 Posts |
Posted - 21/04/2008 : 18:37:06
|
| There shouldn't be a problem having to trim a new firewall if you use a softer rubber seal (J2).I found a correct section item in local industrial rubber supplier which fitted perfectly and allowed the bonnet to seat easily. I can supply details if anyone is interested. Simon. |
|
|
|
rodb
New Zealand
260 Posts |
Posted - 26/04/2008 : 01:32:23
|
We are currently restoring a L2 and need a firewall. The cost to freight one to New Zealand may be prohibitive, so can any one provide a paper tracing of one suitable for posting please? Also I read somewhere that the L2 firewall was 2ö wider than a J2?
Rod Brayshaw |
|
|
|
George Eagle
United Kingdom
3240 Posts |
Posted - 30/04/2008 : 18:54:57
|
Hi Rod
I have a tracing of an original L2 firewall - Chris Nolan very kindly sent this to me following his superb rebuild of L2002.
I will email you.
Regards George |
Edited by - George Eagle on 30/04/2008 18:57:36 |
|
|
| |
Topic |
|
Forum Locked
Topic Locked
