I am never convinced that I have done the right thing..
Having just got MOT on my PA in time for winter, pulled the dipstick to find water in the oil, hoping this is a result of being sat too long( no coolant in the engine for 6 months) and in absense of time to find a fast permanent fix,I intend to change the oil and see what happens (some effort being better than none).
What is the preffered oil these days for a PA with Phoenix crank and shell bearings?
"Progress can be good, but I think yesterday was better."
Hi Rob I had water in the oil problems after the car had been standing for some time( lots of salad cream like emulisfied oil in the rocker cover) on checking the cylinder head nuts you could see blue (antifreeze ) blips of water coming up from the head, torqueing ? down the nuts fixed the problem, hope it does for you !
Rob my advice to you would be to think long and hard before you put a thin modern high detergent oil such as GTX in to your engine particularly if it has previously been run with a straight or low detergent oil. There has already been much discussion on this issue in previous posts and it would be worth your while reading these. Personally I would not take the risk of using such an oil in a pre war engine with white metal bearings even if the big ends are shells. If you really want to use a multigrade then Morris, Miller and Penrite all do specially formulated low detergent 20-50's. However many people with long experience of running and rebuilding Triple M cars will tell you that our engines will do high mileages without problems on good quality straight 30/40 mineral oils preferably changed once a year. If I was starting with a clean newly rebuilt engine today having a modern filter and shell big ends I might well consider one of the above 20-50's or the excellent Valvoline VR1 20-50 but I cannot see the point or advantage in taking a risk with the thinner multigrades designed for modern engines.