| Author |
 Topic  |
|
|
Bill Abbott
United Kingdom
61 Posts |
 Posted - 29/03/2006 : 20:15:04
|
Hi All
In waking up my N type after its hibernation I've found I've got water in the sump. Not a lot, but enough to give no oil pressure when cranked on the starter ( a proceedure I always do after a period of inactivity to get things going before firing up) I disconnected the gauge pipe at the bottom of the filter bowl and turned the engine over again.After a lot of hissing and gurgling out came the dreaded emulsified gunge. This certainly didn't appear on the dip stick which gave the impression all was well. The drained oil didn't look to bad, but it did have some water droplets in it. I was hoping it may have been condensation until I checked under the rocker cover and found a small puddle of water with antifreeze in it.The compressions all seem fine and the engine runs well (new Oil) with no obvious tell tale signs of a blown gasket. As there are no block to head oil ways the water, I assume, is traveling up a stud and then down a head oil drain pipe. Or could the water get to the oil via the water pump shaft? although there are no obvious drips in that area.
Would "Bars leaks" be worth a shot? or is it head gasket time? Any thoughts before I think the worst about porous blocks etc. |
|
|
KevinH
United Kingdom
156 Posts |
Posted - 29/03/2006 : 21:10:05
|
Bill,
On my PA the head was repaired by welding and a previous 'restorer' welded the block so badly that the face was pulled down on one side.
The engine was repaired and rebuilt, but I often had a slight weep from the block and a very small amount of water in the head.
I tried Barrs leaks, which wasn't a lot of good, but the local autoparts dealer recommended another product which has effectively sorted the problem.
I can't remember what it is called, but to be effective, the temperature of the coolant had to be very close to boiling.
I'd suggest a visit to your local autoparts store before thinking the worst.
I'm not sure about the water pump shaft, but if the seal was bad I think that you would find a lot of visible filth on and around the pump.
Hope this helps.
Kevin |
 |
|
|
George Eagle
United Kingdom
3246 Posts |
Posted - 30/03/2006 : 11:48:44
|
quote:
Originally posted by Bill Abbott
Hi All
In waking up my N type after its hibernation I've found I've got water in the sump. Not a lot, but enough to give no oil pressure when cranked on the starter ( a proceedure I always do after a period of inactivity to get things going before firing up) I disconnected the gauge pipe at the bottom of the filter bowl and turned the engine over again.After a lot of hissing and gurgling out came the dreaded emulsified gunge. This certainly didn't appear on the dip stick which gave the impression all was well. The drained oil didn't look to bad, but it did have some water droplets in it. I was hoping it may have been condensation until I checked under the rocker cover and found a small puddle of water with antifreeze in it.The compressions all seem fine and the engine runs well (new Oil) with no obvious tell tale signs of a blown gasket. As there are no block to head oil ways the water, I assume, is traveling up a stud and then down a head oil drain pipe. Or could the water get to the oil via the water pump shaft? although there are no obvious drips in that area.
Would "Bars leaks" be worth a shot? or is it head gasket time? Any thoughts before I think the worst about porous blocks etc.
|
|
|
|
George Eagle
United Kingdom
3246 Posts |
Posted - 30/03/2006 : 11:50:51
|
quote:
Originally posted by Bill Abbott
Hi All
In waking up my N type after its hibernation I've found I've got water in the sump. Not a lot, but enough to give no oil pressure when cranked on the starter ( a proceedure I always do after a period of inactivity to get things going before firing up) I disconnected the gauge pipe at the bottom of the filter bowl and turned the engine over again.After a lot of hissing and gurgling out came the dreaded emulsified gunge. This certainly didn't appear on the dip stick which gave the impression all was well. The drained oil didn't look to bad, but it did have some water droplets in it. I was hoping it may have been condensation until I checked under the rocker cover and found a small puddle of water with antifreeze in it.The compressions all seem fine and the engine runs well (new Oil) with no obvious tell tale signs of a blown gasket. As there are no block to head oil ways the water, I assume, is traveling up a stud and then down a head oil drain pipe. Or could the water get to the oil via the water pump shaft? although there are no obvious drips in that area.
Would "Bars leaks" be worth a shot? or is it head gasket time? Any thoughts before I think the worst about porous blocks etc.
|
|
|
|
George Eagle
United Kingdom
3246 Posts |
Posted - 30/03/2006 : 11:58:01
|
quote:
Originally posted by Bill Abbott
Hi All
In waking up my N type after its hibernation I've found I've got water in the sump. Not a lot, but enough to give no oil pressure when cranked on the starter ( a proceedure I always do after a period of inactivity to get things going before firing up) I disconnected the gauge pipe at the bottom of the filter bowl and turned the engine over again.After a lot of hissing and gurgling out came the dreaded emulsified gunge. This certainly didn't appear on the dip stick which gave the impression all was well. The drained oil didn't look to bad, but it did have some water droplets in it. I was hoping it may have been condensation until I checked under the rocker cover and found a small puddle of water with antifreeze in it.The compressions all seem fine and the engine runs well (new Oil) with no obvious tell tale signs of a blown gasket. As there are no block to head oil ways the water, I assume, is traveling up a stud and then down a head oil drain pipe. Or could the water get to the oil via the water pump shaft? although there are no obvious drips in that area.
Would "Bars leaks" be worth a shot? or is it head gasket time? Any thoughts before I think the worst about porous blocks etc.
Hi Bill
You have my sympathy! On my NB the problem turned out to be vertical cracks in the bores where the block had been relinered. I did try a sealant but this proved to be ony temporary as the crack "travelled". A new block was the only solution. Expensive!!
You mention water seeping into the cyclinder head - this could be coming from one of the studs, usually the two rear most, or more likely one of the two core plugs.
Sealants do work and in my case Holts Wonderweld did provide a summer's trouble free motoring but the problem came back when the car was laid up for the winter.
|
|
|
|
talbot
United Kingdom
718 Posts |
Posted - 30/03/2006 : 14:52:47
|
Bill,
Garages now have special "litmus" papers which they use for testing coolant water for exhaust gasses to see if a cylinder head is warped. May be worth getting hold of one of the testing kits before you start dismantling.
Good luck
Jan T |
|
|
|
Bill Abbott
United Kingdom
61 Posts |
Posted - 30/03/2006 : 19:30:03
|
| Many thanks all, for your advice. I did think of your expensive (but lovelly) new block Gearge when I discovered the problem but thats definately a plan Z for me. I will try some wonder weld as it only seems a small leak and hope against hope that it does the job. What will it do to the rad? or does it only cure when it finds air? |
|
|
|
bahnisch
Australia
674 Posts |
Posted - 30/03/2006 : 23:08:54
|
| I had the same problem with my P-type many years ago, one of the (wet) liners had cracked after desperate attempts were made to save the block. I agree that a new block is really the only practical solution. |
|
|
|
bahnisch
Australia
674 Posts |
Posted - 02/04/2006 : 13:23:36
|
| Paul, I am not surprised, the only thing that helped, albeit not for very long, was Bars Leaks. |
|
|
|
rbm
United Kingdom
141 Posts |
Posted - 03/04/2006 : 08:57:36
|
Amasing stuff this Bar-leaks, 5 or 6 years ago while going across towards Scotch Corner the radiator on our 1947 Fordson 7V 3 ton lorry split, it was like someone had turned a tap on, pooring out (it was about 4am in the morning as well), anyway we opened the lorries windscreen took the radiator cap off and returned home, topping up the water through the open screen, stopping every 1/2 mile or so to replenish our water supply to top up with. By the time we got to Teabay a grarge was open who had Bars-leaks bought 2 bottles poored the 1st one in and by the time I'd opened the second it had stopped leaking, not even a drip.
Always carry it now even in the moderns.
Richard |
|
|
|
Bill Abbott
United Kingdom
61 Posts |
Posted - 06/04/2006 : 20:49:48
|
| Thanks all for your advice. I have tried Bars Leaks and the situation seems to have improved. The engine has been standing for a week and so far the oil and water are keeping themselves to themselves. I did buy some Holts "wonda Weld" but after reading the very serious cautions on the instructions I was too frightened to use it as it seems to have the potential to cause a huge amount of damage. |
|
|
|
John
United Kingdom
51 Posts |
Posted - 07/04/2006 : 09:17:49
|
Paul, further to past forums I have fitted a thermostat into the top hose on the PB,( works a treat) would it be OK to add Bars Leaks as a precautionary/anti corrosion measure? My concern is that it might block up the small bi-pass holes we have drilled in the thermostat rim.
Best regards and many thanks to all who make this forum the best there is. John |
|
|
|
George Eagle
United Kingdom
3246 Posts |
Posted - 10/04/2006 : 19:53:18
|
Hi Bill
I am pleased to note the Bars Leaks appears to be working - like Paul Duncombe I have used it both in my MGC GT and the NB to lubricate the water pump. It also cleared up a very small leak in the MGC radiator which did not leak before it was reconditioned.
The Holts product does not cause any damage at all if you follow the instructions! Hopefully you will not need to try it!
George |
|
|
|
John
United Kingdom
51 Posts |
Posted - 16/04/2006 : 09:50:23
|
Paul,many thanks for reply I have just added the jollop to the radiator and going out for a run to circulate it.(Any excuse).
Best Regards, Happy Easter to all. |
|
|
|
mumfordj
United Kingdom
9 Posts |
Posted - 24/04/2006 : 14:26:51
|
Sorry I have come a bit late onto this topic but I offer the following for what it is worth. I have had such leaks twice in my M type and, on the assumption that the manufacturing processes of the MMMs are all much the same, I suggest the following.
Two of the stud holes through the head are in fact steel sleeves and are not drilled through the cast iron. Needless to say, these rust and I ended up with small puddles of coolant under the rocker box. The temporary solution was a wide washer under the head nut well sealed to the top of the head and plenty of sealant on the thread.
The other ocasion was the core plug on the top surface of the head; this actually came out dumping half the radiator into the rocker box so it was quite easy to notice but a leak in the plug could have the effect described.
James. |
|
|
| |
Topic |
|
Forum Locked
Topic Locked
