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 Relocation of rear lights
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Simon Johnston

United Kingdom
6140 Posts

Posted - 28/06/2014 :  07:16:00  Show Profile
Dave

They're the LB5 light boards with amber and red LEDs (plus two little white ones pointed sideways for illuminating the number plate). The picture may still show the smaller ones with 12/13 LEDs but the current ones have 18 LEDs top and bottom for flasher and tail/stop lights.

I've also been watching progress on the LED headlights - hopefully these will arrive before the winter.

Simon J
J3437
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Oz34

United Kingdom
2543 Posts

Posted - 28/06/2014 :  10:02:58  Show Profile
Thanks Simon. I've now got the Dutch brackets for the wing stays so I'll get a pair for those.

Dave
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Gordon

United Kingdom
692 Posts

Posted - 28/06/2014 :  14:16:00  Show Profile
The powerful dipping bulbs on Peter's site require a heatsink and cooling fan on the back of the bulb so even if a 15 base version became available I suspect that there is not enough room between the back of the reflector and the the shell to accommodate this.

His 15 size non dipping bulbs (55w equivalent) do however fit and give a very good light but you have to set the beam to the dipped position. On slower cars this is acceptable.
I wonder whether there is a modern complex reflector design that would fit the headlamp shells, are of shallower depth and so allow Perer's dipping bulb to be accommodated ?

Gordon
ex owner of PB 0331, MG4473
Derby
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Simon Johnston

United Kingdom
6140 Posts

Posted - 12/07/2014 :  15:14:32  Show Profile
Just a small update on the warning beeper I installed (see link in earlier post). With LED side lights and indicators, and an appropriate electronic flasher unit, I found that the beeper unit had to be connected to the flasher warning light terminal not the output terminal. If I connected it to output terminal of the flasher unit, once the ignition was switched on it immediately started to beep as though the indicators were switched on (which they weren't). The other problem I discovered was that if the side lights were on, the beeper didn't work at all. I concluded this was due to some slight current leakage back along the brake light wire from the LED side lights and activating the 'brake light silencing' function. Fitting a diode in this wire solved the problem.

I suspect that if one was using regular bulbs rather than LEDs none of these problems would have arisen but the fix was fairly simple.

Simon J
J3437

Edited by - Simon Johnston on 12/07/2014 15:15:59
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LewPalmer

USA
3244 Posts

Posted - 12/07/2014 :  16:44:56  Show Profile
Simon,

Were you using a 2 post or 3 post flasher? I found that with the 2 post flasher, the symptoms are exactly as you describe. With the 3 post, the beeper and warning light are both connected to the X terminal, and all is well.

Lew Palmer
PA1169, PB0560
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Simon Johnston

United Kingdom
6140 Posts

Posted - 12/07/2014 :  17:26:36  Show Profile
Lew,

By 'post' I assume you mean terminal? Mine has three terminals - input, output (to indicator switch) and warning light. The beeper needs to be connected to the warning light terminal, not the output one.

Simon J
J3437
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LewPalmer

USA
3244 Posts

Posted - 12/07/2014 :  17:48:34  Show Profile
Simon,

Correct. By X terminal I meant the indicator terminal. Mine worked well, but you are correct that there might have been some leak back through the warning light.


Lew Palmer
PA1169, PB0560
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Simon Johnston

United Kingdom
6140 Posts

Posted - 12/07/2014 :  18:02:54  Show Profile
Lew,

Now I'm getting confused! So just to be clear about how I had to wire the beeper up, the beeper unit is connected to the third terminal which is also used for the warning light. And the reason for needing the diode was nothing to do with the warning light. The beeper has the additional feature that the beeping can be silenced by connecting it to the brake light switch. Pressing the brake pedal, and thus activating the switch, causes the beeping to be silenced for as long as the brakes are on. But when the lights were on, there was current leakage back along the wire from the tail light to the brake light switch and thus activating the silence function and it was on that wire that I had to insert the diode.

Simon J
J3437

Edited by - Simon Johnston on 12/07/2014 18:10:07
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LewPalmer

USA
3244 Posts

Posted - 12/07/2014 :  23:29:57  Show Profile
Gotcha! I misread your second post. But since the flasher is electronic for LEDs, it requires only a small current to activate (and possibly deactivate upon sensing brake light current). That is likely the reason for the unintended silence.

But my brain is likewise deactivated today, Just ignore me. <grin>

Lew Palmer
PA1169, PB0560
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Simon Johnston

United Kingdom
6140 Posts

Posted - 13/07/2014 :  07:49:11  Show Profile
Yeah, I have days like that as well, Lew.

Anyway, I reckon the final result is pretty good. I have lights that are much more visible to following traffic, including bright amber turn signals, and yet still look 'vintage' with no obviously amber lenses. And the warning beeper with its delay and its brake pedal silencing trick is very effective.

This photo was taken at Ballybannon - could have been June 1933 (except my car wasn't delivered until August).






Simon J
J3437
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Tim Phelps

United Kingdom
167 Posts

Posted - 14/07/2014 :  15:56:00  Show Profile
Apologies to Simon for taking a snapshot of one of his earlier photos, but can anyone tell me what these aluminium ties are called and where I can get them from? I'm trying to avoid using the dreaded nylon cable ties on my car and I've had a few second-hand ones like this, but would like to find a source of new ones. Can anyone help please?
Tim



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Simon Johnston

United Kingdom
6140 Posts

Posted - 14/07/2014 :  16:04:00  Show Profile
Here you go.

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/mobile/product/330/category/65

Simon J
J3437
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Tim Phelps

United Kingdom
167 Posts

Posted - 14/07/2014 :  16:10:15  Show Profile
Simon,
Many thanks.
Tim
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Max Headroom

United Kingdom
292 Posts

Posted - 16/07/2014 :  10:10:05  Show Profile
I fully understand why anyone would want to avoid using modern tie-wraps, but those metal straps chafe and cut into paint, wiring and anything they come into contact with.

I'm going to use waxed string for securing wiring. It's a very old method but still used in aviation, can be a little fiddly and time consuming, but it lasts extremely well even in exposed areas such as undercarriage bays that get very dirty, wet, and repeatedly frozen!











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