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Glenn Brazil
USA
87 Posts |
 Posted - 25/07/2015 : 20:01:58
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thanks to all who helped with support tubes for bulkhead to firewall. I just received rain channel & alloy T bonnet support molding for bulkhead.
Will this bend to follow the contour without heating? Does it need to have small cuts to allow it to bend?
I have the galvanized metal and marine plywood for the firewall. I only have the galvanized piece for the engine side of the firewall. Are both sides of the firewall fitted with the galvanized metal? Your help is appreciated. |
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LewPalmer
USA
3243 Posts |
Posted - 25/07/2015 : 21:05:17
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Glenn,
I found, when doing mine, that you can screw the T channel to the bulkhead as you work up from the wing toward the top middle. Then gently bend as you go. The aluminum is only half hard, so it will bend, but go very gently. If you bend it too sharply it can kink (especially at the lacing holes) which is was you don't want.
You want to wind up with a lacing hole each side of the corner and one close to the center top, so plan carefully. It may take several attempts, each time bending a little more. I did not have to take cuts in mine to make it fit.
The firewall, to the best of my knowledge, is metal clad on both sides. There has been some discussion on this forum that the cockpit side was painted. I didn't paint mine as I like the galvanized pattern showing. To each his own.
Lew Palmer
PA1169, PB0560 |
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PeterL
United Kingdom
1723 Posts |
Posted - 25/07/2015 : 21:35:09
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J3485 had the cockpit side painted to match the paler green.
Cheers
P |
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Glenn Brazil
USA
87 Posts |
Posted - 26/07/2015 : 02:55:18
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| thanks. I believe I may have misunderstood information I got some time back. I was told galv. tin on engine side and side facing bulkhead was painted. I now think they meant the metal was painted and I thought the plywood was painted. I will begin search for an older galv. pattern for the other side. Glenn |
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PeterL
United Kingdom
1723 Posts |
Posted - 26/07/2015 : 09:08:01
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Hmmm
Remembering my F types, they were not painted!
Second thoughts, not so sure. I still have the old metal and will check...
Cheers
P |
Edited by - PeterL on 26/07/2015 09:09:38 |
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JMH
United Kingdom
911 Posts |
Posted - 26/07/2015 : 09:38:44
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The firewall of J2396 that was on the car in 1952 (so presumed to be the original one) has no trace of paint on it.
JH) |
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tholden
United Kingdom
1638 Posts |
Posted - 26/07/2015 : 11:36:43
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I agree with Jeremy I have seen lots of J2 firewalls but none have been painted on one side.I cannot say for sure with other models. However do not forget that a lot may have happened to these cars over their 80 + years of life. I once saw an old J2 where everything but everything had been painted BRG. The dash, the engine, the radiator core, the suspension, the chassis absolutely everything. The owner told me that the first owner said had done it in 1935 following a post accident rebuild. Anybody looking at the car could have argued it was original - it certainly looked it after so many years.
With regard to the fitting of the T section ali bonnet rest this can be a tricky job. I think you were lucky Lew to bend it without annealing it. I have found the best way for me is to work up from the bottom fitting the screws bendng to shape in situ removing annealing re-fitting and bending some more until you have it in position. Keep annealing at the corner section. For the reasons you state Lew I don't drill the holes until after it is bent to shape. You also need to adjust the angle of the rest section to level with the bonnet and this is again best done in situ after annealing and using a flat steel dolly.
I know one restorer who made up a special jig to bend this section but this s probably only worthwhile if you have more than one car to do.
Practice first if you can.
Good luck
TH |
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Max Headroom
United Kingdom
292 Posts |
Posted - 26/07/2015 : 16:42:33
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Terry - this job is fast approaching for me as well.
I'm aware of the need for annealing, but unsure of how to go about this having never done it before, and can see that it would be quite easy to melt the aluminium if it got too hot.
I am sure someone suggested to use soap to help ascertain when the metal would be annealed - but how does the soap help? I assume this is hand soap rubbed on to the metal?
Does it just turn black or something?
I just have an ordinary blow-lamp
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Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
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Inside every older person is a younger person – wondering what the hell happened.
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g waiting
United Kingdom
727 Posts |
Posted - 26/07/2015 : 17:21:36
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Hi Mark,
Exactly as you say, just rub one surface with dry soap, heat up with your blow torch, but don't point the flame directly at the soap. When the soap goes black it is done. Anneal as many times as required, when you have it right just wash the soap residue off under the hot tap. Soap washes off with hot water, who would have thought it ?
Regards,
Garry |
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Ged Segrave
United Kingdom
206 Posts |
Posted - 26/07/2015 : 17:27:33
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Glenn,
I made a forming tool which worked well - a picture says a thousand words - As Lew says take it easy to avoid kinking, Also with half hard aluminium I didn't need any heat.
The 2nd operation, to get a slight angle for the forwards bonnet slope I drilled a hole in my work bench and clamped the aluminium
then tapped the aluminium with a soft hammer around the 2nd former which has angle cut into the curve.
Hope this helps
Ged
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Max Headroom
United Kingdom
292 Posts |
Posted - 26/07/2015 : 18:32:35
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Fascinating!
Many thanks Garry, and apologies Glenn in case I hijacked your thread!
Looks like making a former is a good plan - I was just going to form it by eye/hand 
________________________________________________________________________
Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
________________________________________________________________________
Inside every older person is a younger person – wondering what the hell happened.
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bloodysalmon
Spain
1482 Posts |
Posted - 26/07/2015 : 18:59:07
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Ged, that is an ingenious set up ... love it, going to have to make one to do my D-type salonette now
Chris Blood (D0407 & F0753) |
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Glenn Brazil
USA
87 Posts |
Posted - 26/07/2015 : 20:59:00
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great responses. I was lucky to find a piece of old pattern galv tin. I got enough to do 1 side; now must find another piece. The new process is more shiny and no pattern on the finish.
I like the jig used to bend the T section. I may try slow methodical approach and if it does not work, try the low heat application. You were a great help. -glenn |
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Nick Dean
United Kingdom
444 Posts |
Posted - 26/07/2015 : 22:57:12
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Max,when annealing aluminium,rub normal bar soap along edge and with gentle heat the soap turns light brown,this is when it will bend more easily. Good luck Nick.
N A Dean |
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LewPalmer
USA
3243 Posts |
Posted - 27/07/2015 : 01:11:11
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When I made the firewall for both my PA and PB, I went to the local plumbing and heating supply store. They had galvanized steel plenum tops for furnaces which were exactly the right size (about 26 inches square, as I recall). They let me pick through their stocks for an appropriate snowflake pattern.
Lew Palmer
PA1169, PB0560 |
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